Ten Things You Should Know About Pet Lizards

If you are about to obtain your first pet lizard, congratulations. Lizards are, in my view, the most wonderful, fascinating and beautiful creatures on Earth. Part of their appeal is their incredible diversity; there are more species of lizards than all the mammals or amphibians, and they range from three-inch legless burrowers to the mighty 200-pound Komodo dragon. Some are coloured with somber tans and ochre, and others rival the most ostentatious of butterflies with gaudy green, red, and yellow markings. Some glide on fragile wings, some run across the water, and some can stick to ceilings. With my sincere apology to Samuel Johnson, it is my opinion that "when a man gets tired of lizards, he is tired of life"!

That said, here are ten valuable guidelines to help you and your lizard get off to a good start, and stay on a safe and happy course. I speak with a wee bit of experience, having kept lizards since 1961, and going on to spending over 30 years as a professional herpetologist. These tips are just a starting point, but they cover ten really important points!

1) Start by getting a lizard that is easy to care for! Many lizards are very demanding in captivity, and those should be left to experienced keepers. Among the best starter lizards are the Australian bearded dragon and blue-tongue skinks, which grow to a total length near 13-inches. They do not become stressed when properly handled, are generally tame, and eat a wide variety of foods, from fruits, vegetables and flowers to insects, moist dog food and small mice. Savanna monitors are also good for beginners, but get a young specimen and raise it to adult size; freshly imported adults may be aggressive, but captive bred/raised specimens are excellent animals for beginner keepers.

2) Avoid getting a species that people think of as "pets" but are really very challenging to keep properly. Among those species to avoid: iguanas, Nile monitors, chameleons, and small species that grow to only 3 - 8 inches in length.

3) Read up about your lizard, because there is no excuse for doing a poor job as its keeper. For books, you can consult Bibliomania! at www.herplit.com, one of the largest reptile book dealers in existence. Then subscribe to one of the magazines published for reptile keepers, which include REPTILES (www.reptilechannel.com/rmrc_portal.aspx), REPTILIA (www.reptilia.net/html_english/inter-print2.html), REPTILES AUSTRALIA (www.reptilesaustralia.com.au/), and Britain publishes REPTILE CARE (www.reptilecareuk.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=10&Itemid=11).

4) Remember that lizards and snakes are very closely related groups of animals, but lizards need very different care. Unlike snakes that may need food only once a week or month, lizards usually need to eat every day, and sometimes more than once per day. But do not leave rotting or dirty food in the terrarium, because it could be contaminated with germs and cause your lizard to become sick.

5) Do not grab or hold a lizard by the tail. Even though the tail of a bearded dragon, blue-tongue skink, or savanna monitor will not break off, it is uncomfortable for the lizard. Get used to holding the lizard by putting your hand under its belly and supporting its weight from below.

6) Never use your lizard to frighten anyone! Strange as it may sound, some people are afraid of reptiles, and that kind of fear has led to many laws and regulations being passed that make owning reptiles in some places difficult. It is much better for the lizards - and the rest of us keepers - if you use your lizard to help teach other people how wonderful they really are!

7) Never release an unwanted pet reptile into the wild. Most pets are from other continents and will not live long where you live. It is also possible, especially in a place like Florida, that the released pet will do well and, if many such pets have been released, found a colony of foreign animals. This is not good for the local wildlife and really upsets conservationists and Fish and Wildlife officials.

8) All diurnal (active during the daytime) lizards need some ultraviolet light in their lives. But UV light does not penetrate glass, so it doesn't help to put a terrarium near a window. In addition to a heat light (all lizards need a temperature of at least 78 degrees F, many much more), you will need a good full-spectrum UV light. These are now produced to fit in either a screw-in socket or a standard fluorescent tube socket. For examples of excellent products check the Zoo Med website at www.zoomed.com.

9) Always be sure your lizard has access to fresh, clean water! Some lizards only drink dew drops from leaves, but these species are not among the beginner's species. Even desert lizards - and that includes all of the beginner species I've listed - can and will drink from a dish, and even enjoy soaking if the dish is large enough. Soaking also makes skin shedding easier for your lizards.

10) Do not crowd your lizard. If you are getting two lizards to start with, make them both the same species, preferably one of each sex, about the same size, and house them in a terrarium that is large enough. Overcrowded lizards become stressed and may refuse to eat. They are also more likely to catch an illness. If you cannot offer enough space, do not get the lizard. Period.

BONUS TIP 1) A fourth excellent starter lizard is the leopard gecko, a delicate and very popular nocturnal species that has been bred into many colour morphs (it's something like the lizard keeper's equivalent of the guppy!). Unlike the other starter species I mentioned, leopard geckos are smaller (to about 6 inches), have soft, delicate skin, and have tails that are easily broken. Yes, they grow back, but only as stiff rods that never look as good as the original. They also require more gentle handling than the larger starter species. They do not need UV light, but they still need a warm terrarium (70 - 78 degrees at night, 78 -95 degrees by day), sandy soil, and places they can hide. Feed them live insects, especially crickets, young roaches, and wax worms.

BONUS TIP 2) Do not use heat rocks to keep diurnal lizards warm! The lizards are, frankly, not "wired" to know that their bellies are actually cooking, and they may stay on the rock until badly injured or dead! Leopard geckos, however, will be fine with a heat rock or two.

Other things that you should know include washing your hands well after handling your lizards, do not tease or annoy the animals, and be sure to keep the terrarium clean.

The second edition of Dr Sprackland's classic book, "Giant Lizards," is scheduled to be released in October 2008. It not only covers the world's largest lizards, but includes chapters about lizard care and biology that are useful to all reptile keepers. Look for "Giant Lizards, 2nd Edition" published by TFH, Inc., at your favourite pet shop or book seller's.

The author is a professional biologist who teaches human anatomy and physiology. His blogs present a view of human nature as might be observed by a visitor from another world...

The second edition of Dr Sprackland's classic book, "Giant Lizards," is scheduled to be released in October 2008. It not only covers the world's largest lizards, but includes chapters about lizard care and biology that are useful to all reptile keepers. Look for "Giant Lizards, 2nd Edition" published by TFH, Inc., at your favourite pet shop or book seller's.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dr._Robert_Sprackland

Frogs and Salamanders are Amphibians

Not many people know that the common garden frogs and toads come under special category called amphibians. They are called amphibians because they can live both on ground and inside water. They have a special set of lungs that assist respiration irrespective of the location of the animal. The term amphibian is so commonly used these days that any thing that relates to dual life inside water and on ground is referred to as amphibious. They are also called amphibians because there is involvement of water at one particular level in the life cycle of the animal. Let us examine these amphibians one by one.

The amphibians include the general garden frog, salamander, giant salamander, newt, Caecilians, South African Ghost frog, Dancing frog, Bull Frog, Dart Frog, Tree Frog and Gardenia Seychelles. All these animals lead a dual life. They spend more or less equal amount of their life cycle on water and land. For instance, it has been found that amphibians find it extremely difficult to survive in the absence of water. Even, the common garden frog is found in places where there is a lot of moisture. You can even find the garden frogs inside the water tank or fountain in the park or house garden. The frogs are fond of water for several reasons. Whenever they mate, the breeding takes place inside water. The frogs need water as the medium to lay their eggs. The initial phase of the newly born tad poles also known as younglings of frogs need water to sustain a living. These tadpoles contain a special set of gills using which they breathe while in water. Interestingly if the tadpoles are taken out of the water, they will not survive for long. Such is the bonding between the frog's life cycle and water.

After spending a larger part of their life inside water, the tadpoles transform into frogs. During this transformational period, these tad poles rely extensively on water for their food. They feed on a lot of microbial animals called planktons. It is said that a garden water tank is always clean in the presence of frogs. In the absence of water, frogs find it extremely difficult to breed. Some tree frogs, which live inside the jungles with little or no flowing water, have found an innovative way to breed. These frogs rely on the flower dew and tree sap for breeding. For instance, the frogs lay the eggs inside the dew collected flower in which the tadpoles become active once the egg hatches. The tad poles have very little space to move around. However, they continue to survive in such as small space. Unlike garden frogs, which lay eggs in thousands, the tree frogs lay only a few eggs. Since the absence of the ecosystem for breeding is poor when compared to that of the garden frog, the number of eggs laid is less.

Newts are some times tadpoles that fail to grow into the full size of a frog. Such conditions are very normal in the amphibian world. The limbless amphibians are also found in the fresh water.

Article written by Cassaundra Flores, owner of skyfireproducts.com

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Tips For Choosing A Turtle As A Pet

When choosing a turtle as a pet for the first time, new pet owners may be hesitant as they are unsure as to how they should get started. The good news is that choosing a turtle to add to your household is much easier than it may seem. The following will provide some tips on how to choose this friendly animal for your new pet.

Read Up on Turtles First

Before heading out to the store you should read up on turtles either online or in books from your local library or bookstore. By having the requisite knowledge about these creatures you will be better prepared to become a turtle owner. Not only will you learn what items you need to purchase alongside the turtle in order to get started but you will also gain knowledge regarding how to care for your new pet and keep it happy.

Decide What Type of Turtle You Want

It is also a good idea to determine what type of turtle you want to buy. When choosing a turtle as a pet you will be met with a variety of options with regard to turtle species. When reading about turtles, try to figure out which type of turtle is most suitable for your specific living situation. In addition, if you have children in the home, keep in mind that some turtles will be better suited for homes with kids than others will be. Deciding what type of turtle you want right in the beginning will help you to narrow down the turtle options and choose one which is best for you.

Know That Owning a Turtle Is a Commitment

As with any pet, those who buy turtles are making the commitment to care for them properly and keep them content and safe. Know that you will have to feed the turtle, clean the living space and teach the children to treat the turtle gently. Although a turtle may not take as much effort as a cat or a dog will, it is still a pet which needs to be cared for properly and fully.

Try to Find Package Deals on Turtles and Turtle Equipment

You may also find that pet stores offer package deals on animals and accompanying equipment from time to time. The same may be true in the case of a turtle. Try to find a pet store which offers complete packages which may include the turtle, living quarters for your new little friend, food and any other accessories which turtles need to live happily. Choosing a turtle as a pet in the way of a package deal not only will ensure that you have all that you need for your new pet but you may even get a great deal on all of the items as well.

Craig Thornburrow is an acknowledged expert in his field. You can get more free advice on keeping turtles and Turtle Equipment at http://www.keepingturtles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Craig_Thornburrow

Provide Comfort At Low Cost With Cheap Dog Beds

As soon as we think of keeping a pet dog at our place, we almost simultaneously about all the duties that we are required to perform. One of the most important provisions that we are required to make for our dog is a proper sleeping place. It is easy to provide one now due to the availability of cheap dog beds.

Depending upon the breed of the dog that you have, you can easily choose the bed which suits your pet. It is very important to see the suitability of the bed according to the size of your pet. Any small discomfort can lead the dog being restless in his bed and wanting to leap on you right in the middle of the night. This however cannot be allowed for them, so it is important to get the perfect size for your pet.

There are various varieties available when it comes to choosing a nocturnal retreat for your pet. Large ones are available if your canine is one of those larger breeds. For the smaller dogs, it is important to fix them a bed where they do not feel uncomfortable as too large a bed can lead them to keep moving to warm it the whole night.

A unique one to provide your pet comfort can be the "in" thing for the owner of the pet, so in such cases, unique beds are also available. Designer and luxury ones are also available if the owner wants to splurge and have a customized resting place for their pet.

If your dog is suffering from arthritis and you need a place to rest for him which is made for his problem, orthopedic beds are also available to provide utmost comfort to your pet. Wooden and fleece beds are also available to cater to the specific liking of your canine.

There are various options available for buying beds for dogs in the market. But it is always better when you can compare all the options that are available. Through online researching, you can come across many dealers for these dog beds. Due to competition, you can find out cheap dog beds and buy one according to your choice and suitability for the pet.

Get the best for your pet and give him complete convenience when its time for sleep. After all, only a happy pet will provide you happiness and protection as well.

Mark Joness is the content author of the Dogs Center. After studies at the University of Alabama, he has been involved in teaching english and creative writing. Mr. Jones writes informative topics related to dogs and their breeds. To find smaller dogs, dog beds, cheap dog beds must visit http://www.dogscenter.net

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How To Effectively Control Fleas

Fleas, those pesky blood sucking pests that make pets' lives miserable and humans itch from just a thought, can be impossible to control unless you understand their life cycle and the vulnerability of each life stage. Most pet owners do not understand the flea as evidenced by their most commonly asked questions:

"How can I get rid of fleas once and for all?"

"Do I use pills, dips, shampoos, powders, topical drops, or a combination?"

"How can I get the fleas out of my house?"

"I've got fleas in my car, how can I get rid of them?"

"Why do I have to treat my carpets, the fleas are on the dog, right?"

"Why is my yard infested with fleas? I do not even own a pet?"

The answer: there is no single method or insecticide that will completely eradicate or control the flea. Did you get that? No single method will effectively control fleas because of their complex and multi-faceted life cycle. Preparations that are effective during one stage of the cycle are ineffective during other stages. Therefore, to successfully control fleas, understanding the various life stages becomes paramount.

Collectively, all of the species of fleas are categorized under the order name of Siphonaptera. The cat flea, Ctenocephalides felix, is the most commonly found flea in the US and infests cats, dogs, humans, and other mammalian and avian hosts. Did you get that? Fleas can be found on other mammals and birds.This explains how non-pet owning homes and yards can become flea infested.

Fleas thrive in warm, moist environments and climates, and Southeast Texas, especially the Gulf Coast area, is better suited for flea development than most other areas of the USA. The main food source for the flea is blood from a host animal. 95% of the time, fleas utilize mammalian hosts. But, fleas can also infest avian species (about 5%).

Why does the flea bite itch? Flea saliva, like other biting skin parasites, contains an ingredient that softens, or "digests" the host's skin for easier penetration and feeding. The saliva of fleas is irritating and allergenic -- the cause of all the itching, scratching, and other signs seen with Flea Allergy Dermatitis, or FAD.

Fleas have four main stages in their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The total flea life cycle can range from a couple weeks to several months, depending on environmental conditions. The total flea population is made up of approximately 50% eggs, 30% larvae, 15% pupae, and only 5% biting adults. This means that the majority of the fleas life is spent off the animal making the environment the most logical treatment target rather then the host animal.

ADULT: The adult flea is very flat side to side. There are hair-like bristles on the flea body and legs to aid in their navigation through pet hair. Fleas have 3 pairs of legs, the hindmost pair designed for jumping. The flea is most famous for its jumping abilities.

The adult flea prefers to live on the animal and its diet consists of blood meals courtesy of the host animal. The female flea is very proliferative and lays white, roundish eggs. She can lay up to 50 eggs per day, 1,500-1,600 eggs over several months.

Fleas cannot reproduce without a blood meal, but they can survive for up to a year without feeding provided they do not emerge from the cocoon.

EGG: The eggs are not sticky (like some parasites), and they usually fall off of the animal into the carpet, the pet's bedding, floorboards, or on the ground. Remember, a dog carrying just 10 producing adult females can spread 15,000 to 16,000 eggs in your house over the course of a few short weeks.

The point in time when the flea egg hatches will vary -- anywhere from two days to a few weeks, depending on environmental conditions. The larva emerges from the egg using a chitin tooth, a hard spine on the top of the head that disappears as the flea matures.

The flea egg is relatively non-susceptible to routine flea treatment programs.

LARVA (plural = larvae): The larval stage is actually made up of three developmental stages. Larvae are about 1/4" (6.35 mm) long, and semi-transparent white. They are often mistaken for fly maggots. They have small hairs along their body and actively move. In order to survive, the larvae eat flea dirt, or the feces of adult fleas (which is mostly dried blood) and other organic debris found in the carpet, bedding, soil, and even on your pet.

Depending on the amount of food present and the environmental conditions, the larval stage lasts about 5 to 18 days (longer in some cases) then the larva spins a silken cocoon and pupates.

PUPA (plural = pupae): The pupa is the last stage before the flea becomes an adult. The adult flea can emerge from the cocoon as early as 3 to 5 days, or it can stay in the cocoon for a year or more, waiting for the right time to emerge. Stimuli such as warm ambient temperatures, high humidity, even the vibrations and carbon dioxide emitted from a passing potential host will cause the flea to emerge from the cocoon faster. And, once he emerges from the cocoon, he has only one thing on his mind - a blood meal.

This brings us back to the starting point, the adult flea.

The entire life cycle is quite variable, as evidenced by the variability in each life stage progression. As mentioned above, the cycle can be as short as two weeks or as long as two years. That is why it is so important to remain vigilant. Even when a flea problem is thought to be under control, it probably is not!

The Flea Control Program

Recognizing that during its life cycle, the flea is only on the dog or cat 5% of the time and off 95%, it only makes sense to focus a control program following the same percentages. Invest 5% of your time and money in controlling fleas on your pet and 95% on ridding your environment of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Here's what we suggest:

Irregardless of whether you do or don't have a flea problem, apply once a month spot on type treatments for each of your pets. This should be continued year round - each of the 12 months if you seriously want to eliminate your flea problem or prevent one from occurring.

If you already have a flea problem:

a. Treat the inside of your house with a flea fogger that contains a growth regulator (IGR) and then complete follow up applications 7 and 14 days later for a total of 3 treatments. Severe infestations may require more treatments.

b. Vacuum your floors daily for 21 days.

c. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once weekly for 3 weeks. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum.

d. Wash your pet's bedding using a good detergent. Continue this step every other week, more often if necessary.

e. Treat you lawn with an agricultural limestone product. If possible, add some diatomaceous earth to the mix. Water in thoroughly.

f. If using broad spectrum spray type insecticides, treat your yard daily for 5 days and then follow up with a single application 7 and 14 days later. If you use a granular type, apply once weekly for 4 weeks. Pay particular attention to outside pet sleeping areas.

If you are pro-actively attempting to prevent flea problems:

a. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once monthly. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum.

b. Treat your lawn with agricultural limestone and diatomaceous earth in the spring and again in the fall.

c. Apply a granular type broad spectrum insecticide once monthly from March through and including October.

Please take note - we have not suggested dips, shampoos, or powders. Although these methods are quite effective at killing adult fleas, they do nothing to eliminate the egg, larvae, or pupae infestation. Topical sprays containing growth regulators are more effective, but again they only target 5% of the flea's life cycle. These preparations each have their place in the overall scheme of flea control and it might be best to consult your local Veterinarian, Pest Control Serviceman, or your Feed Store's Pet Consultant for further suggestions.

Bill Bergfeld is a professional Network Marketer and owner of multiple businesses. As a Farm and Ranch Store Pet Consultant, he maintains a website dedicated to flea control and infestation prevention. You can find more information at http://www.profleacontrol.com

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