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Friday, February 29, 2008

Ball Pythons As Pets

In today's society people are still afraid of snakes. I might ask you, why? OK, some snakes may be a bit aggressive, but that number is very minimal. I'm talking about maybe three or four species.

Ball pythons are a snake to get started with, because of how docile they are. Another great fact about them is they do not get very large, in fact they are considered a small snake ranging from 4-5 feet. They are also cheaper to feed than dogs, cats, even birds. They only eat once every week, and can even go up to two weeks without eating.

I have owned Ball Pythons, now for a little over seven years. My wife and I started out with one because she herself was afraid of them. That was until we got her home and my wife started handling her. Her I keep saying, Bonnie is what we named her. My wife now loves them as much as I do. This means a lot, due to the fact that she was scared of them before Bonnie. We now own eleven Ball Pythons.

From the time my daughter "Angelica" was just a baby she has held and helped feed our snakes. She actually looks forward to helping us with them and enjoys the responsibility of misting the cages everyday. I feel as though this is teaching her how to be an ethical person. So not only is she learning about snakes, but she is bettering herself. She knows the snakes rely on her to help them live, they return the favor by being a great pet.

I hope you have liked this blog, I will keep posting and if you're interested in learning more about Ball Pythons or looking to buy one, then you should stop by our site.


Frogs and Salamanders are Amphibians

Not many people know that the common garden frogs and toads come under special category called amphibians. They are called amphibians because they can live both on ground and inside water. They have a special set of lungs that assist respiration irrespective of the location of the animal. The term amphibian is so commonly used these days that any thing that relates to dual life inside water and on ground is referred to as amphibious. They are also called amphibians because there is involvement of water at one particular level in the life cycle of the animal. Let us examine these amphibians one by one.

The amphibians include the general garden frog, salamander, giant salamander, newt, Caecilians, South African Ghost frog, Dancing frog, Bull Frog, Dart Frog, Tree Frog and Gardenia Seychelles. All these animals lead a dual life. They spend more or less equal amount of their life cycle on water and land. For instance, it has been found that amphibians find it extremely difficult to survive in the absence of water. Even, the common garden frog is found in places where there is a lot of moisture. You can even find the garden frogs inside the water tank or fountain in the park or house garden. The frogs are fond of water for several reasons. Whenever they mate, the breeding takes place inside water. The frogs need water as the medium to lay their eggs. The initial phase of the newly born tad poles also known as younglings of frogs need water to sustain a living. These tadpoles contain a special set of gills using which they breathe while in water. Interestingly if the tadpoles are taken out of the water, they will not survive for long. Such is the bonding between the frog's life cycle and water.

After spending a larger part of their life inside water, the tadpoles transform into frogs. During this transformational period, these tad poles rely extensively on water for their food. They feed on a lot of microbial animals called planktons. It is said that a garden water tank is always clean in the presence of frogs. In the absence of water, frogs find it extremely difficult to breed. Some tree frogs, which live inside the jungles with little or no flowing water, have found an innovative way to breed. These frogs rely on the flower dew and tree sap for breeding. For instance, the frogs lay the eggs inside the dew collected flower in which the tadpoles become active once the egg hatches. The tad poles have very little space to move around. However, they continue to survive in such as small space. Unlike garden frogs, which lay eggs in thousands, the tree frogs lay only a few eggs. Since the absence of the ecosystem for breeding is poor when compared to that of the garden frog, the number of eggs laid is less.

Newts are some times tadpoles that fail to grow into the full size of a frog. Such conditions are very normal in the amphibian world. The limbless amphibians are also found in the fresh water.

Cassaundra Flores - EzineArticles Expert Author

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Blue Pearl Shrimp

The Blue Pearl Shrimp is quickly becoming popular in the American Dwarf Shrimp hobby. This shrimp is a blue color variant of the Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis, the same variety that the Snowball Shrimp is selectively breed from. Some of the reasons they are gaining popularity is because of their ease of care, simple food requirements and their prolific breeding habits.

Blue Pearl Shrimp are rather undemanding when it comes to their care requirements. They require a well-established aquarium that has 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and less than 20 nitrates. They can acclimate to a wide range of parameters requiring a pH range from 6.5-7.5, temperature range of 68-75 degrees, and are undemanding when it comes to water hardness. The most important things to remember for Blue Pearl Shrimp is to avoid extreme water parameters and to maintain consistent water parameters.

Omnivores by nature, Blue Pearl Shrimp will eat just about any food that finds its way into the home aquarium. While they are natural algae eaters supplemental feeding is often necessary. Blanched (boiled until soft) vegetables such as zucchini and spinach make great foods. They will also accept just about any food intended for bottom feeding fish or aquatic invertebrates. It is important not to over feed an aquarium with these as this may cause an ammonia spike.

Blue Pearl Shrimp, as with most Neocaridina species of Dwarf Shrimp, are very prolific breeders. As long as a male and female are present in a well established, well-maintained aquarium they will breed. The male is smaller and less colorful, while the female is larger and more vividly colored. After mating, the female will carry the eggs under her tail until they hatch as very small versions of the adult shrimp. No special care is required for the baby shrimp other than avoiding predators and filters than could suck them up and kill them.

As the popularity of the Blue Pearl Shrimp continues to grow so will its distribution. These Dwarf Shrimp are easy to care for, are not picky eaters, breed prolifically, and because of these they are ideal inhabitants of any home aquarium that does not contain predators!


The Different Types of Turtles

There are hundreds of different types of turtles. This article aims to give you a brief overview of the different types of turtles. Here is a short list of some of the types of turtle:

The Pig Nosed Turtle: This type has been called the Australasian Pig-nose turtle, the pitted shelled turtle, the plateless turtle and even the fly river turtle. This kind is soft shelled and is usually found in freshwater rivers, lagoons and streams in Australia's Northern Territory and in New Guinea.

The Green Sea Turtle: This family of turtle is rather large and can be found in most subtropical and tropical areas in the world. It has two very distinct populations in the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. This is an endangered species and it is illegal to harm, kill or collect them.

The Alligator Snapping Turtle: This is the biggest freshwater turtle on the continent of North America. It is larger than but not quite as aggressive as the common snapping turtle. These turtles are often found in the Missouri River and in South Carolina and the northern areas of Florida. This kind of turtle can stay under water for almost an hour.

The Mesoamerican River Turtle: sometimes this type of turtle is called the hickatee or the tortuga-blaca. This turtle is nocturnal and lives in the lakes and rivers of Central America. Like many other species of turtles, this species is endangered. These turtles can get as big as twenty five inches and can weigh up to forty four pounds.

The Leatherback Turtle: Of all of the types of turtle, this turtle is the largest of them all. The leatherback is a sea turtle and is the only species of turtle that does not have a hard shell. Instead it only has flesh and skin. This kind can be found all over the world.

The Red Eared Slider Turtle: This is known as a semi-aquatic turtle and is usually found in the southern area of the United States, particularly in the Mississippi River. Of course, because it makes a very popular pet, it can be found in pet stores all over the world.

The Common Musk Turtle: This type has also been called The Stinkpot. It got its name because it is able to release a musky and foul odor to dissuade any predators that might think of hunting it. These turtles are found in the Eastern United States and Southeastern Canada.

The Big Headed Turtle: This is one of the types of turtles that is usually found in Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and China. It's head is extremely large and it has been known to climb the trees that are near the rivers and streams where it lives It has also been known to arc its tail (like a scorpion) and is one of the different types of turtles that is unable to pull its head into its shell.

Copyright (c) 2008 Steven Magill

For great turtle care advice, turtle food recommendation or turtle health issues visit us at... http://www.petturtlecare.net/

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Purchasing Healthy Fish

Fortunately, there are a few things you can look out for before making a purchase:

Fins shouldn't be drooping, especially the dorsal fin. A collapsed fin is a bad sign for most fish, although for some species this tip doesn't apply. Puffers normally curl their tail against their body, while butterfly fish have erect dorsal fins only when they are afraid.

In addition, fins need to be intact. Look for nipped, torn, or ripped fins. A few nips may not pose a problem if the fish appears to be behaving properly, but it's a sign to watch out for.

Watch the fish as they swim and mingle with the other specimens in the tank. For example, smaller fish should move out of the way when a dominant fish swims by, as this indicates the fish is feeling normal. A sick fish may allow a dominant fish to intimidate it because it's too ill to move out of the way.

Examine the fish's respiration, comparing the movement of the gills to the other fish. It's normal for some fish to breathe faster than others, but generally fish tend to move their gills at the same rate as those around them in a tank. Quick gill movement is a bad indication because it means the fish is probably stressed.

Other indicators of stress include dark patches and discoloration. If you purchase a book on fish before shopping, it will be easier to determine what coloration is normal for a particular fish, and what's out of the ordinary.

As the fish swim back and forth, search for bumps and raised growths, small white crystals on the fins, or black dots. Fish with these characteristics have parasite infestations. Growths on the fins that resemble cauliflower are an indication of a viral infection and stress. In general, if you notice several fish in one store with signs of stress and disease, don't buy any fish from that location.

And remember, fish that bully in the fish store will most likely do the same thing at home, so avoid purchasing fish that demonstrate aggressive behavior.

For saltwater aquariums in particular, avoid buying Undulated or Queen Triggers, Sohal Tangs, or Passer Angels. Avoid saltwater fish that grow bigger than six to eight inches, unless you're looking to add a slow-moving fish to your aquarium.

Take your time when analyzing the fish so you have time to look beyond the beautiful colors. It's easy to miss common indicators of problems when you have been mesmerized by a gorgeous fish swimming your way. Take a good look at the fish's skin and fins, and watch its movements over a period of time.

Setting Up An Aquarium - Building Your Fishes Home

So, the decision is made, you're going to keep tropical fishes. You've read all you can find about the hobby and you're all fired up ready to get started. You've been out and bought yourself that new aquarium, you've got it home and found a suitable location for it, and you're keen to get on and finish the job, can't wait to see it all set up.

Don't be tempted into putting any water into your aquarium yet!

Don't rush things, patience is a virtue in this hobby, it's better to take all day to set things up, than to dive in and rush things, only to find something wrong and have to start over again to make them right. Although in reality it will be more like half a day.

Follow these steps and you will find things easier in the long run.

If you have decided on an undergravel filtration system put the undergravel plates and uplift tubes in now. This is a pretty straight forward job, you may have to cut some of the plates to make them a fit your particular aquarium but there's nothing complicated there.

Gravel should be washed thoroughly before it goes into your aquarium (it'll be full of dust). Put a bit at a time in a bucket and run water through it from the tap or hosepipe, at the same time stirring and agitating the gravel, it takes some time to get all of the dust out of the gravel, so be patient, it's worth it if you don't want a cloudy mess when you put water into the aquarium. When clear water runs from the gravel then it's OK to place it in the aquarium.

In theory you should arrange the gravel so that it slopes from the rear of the aquarium to the front; this aids any debris to accumulate at the front of the aquarium when it's up and running, making it easier to clean. In reality, I find that the gravel doesn't stay that way; it will just find its own level. Either way you should aim for a depth of about two to three inches (5-8cm).

Set the aquarium heater to approximately 76F (25C) and place it on the rear glass of the aquarium at an angle of about 45 degrees, close to, but not touching the gravel. It should be placed near a filter outlet, or where there is water movement, so that heat can be distributed around the tank. Do not plug it in yet! Aquarium heaters must be submerged in water before being switched on, irreparable damage could be caused.

CAUTION an aquarium heater is hot enough to severely burn when switched on and not in water.

Powerheads can now be placed on top of the uplifts and secured to the aquarium with the brackets or suckers provided. Do not plug powerheads in yet! They need to be submerged, they are cooled and lubricated by the water, and running them dry could cause irreparable damage.

Internal filters can be placed at either side of the aquarium, or at the rear, simply insert the medium into the filter chamber and attach the filter to the glass with the brackets or suckers provided. As with powerheads, do not plug in yet!

If you've decided to use an external filter instead of the options above you can set it up now according to the manufacturer's instructions. The features of these filters may differ slightly between one and another and according to each manufacturer, although they all work basically the same, place the pickup strainer in the aquarium.

Place any air operated features (air stones, etc.) in the aquarium, and run the tubing out of the tank to the air pump. Unless you are using a check valve (non return valve) in the airline, it is important to have the air pump higher than your water level, water could siphon back down the line otherwise.

Rocks should be washed thoroughly and placed gently in the aquarium, don't over do it, this stuff is heavy, and to avoid the risk of it toppling you could consider bonding it together with aquarium sealant, remember to let the sealant dry before putting any water into the aquarium.

Bogwood and Mopani wood are quite attractive pieces of decor, (remember to soak the bogwood for at least a week prior to using it), try a little aquascaping by using the wood and/ or rockwork to form terraces rather than a flat expanse of gravel. This sort of decor can be beneficial in hiding the equipment you've put into the tank.

If you want to use artificial plants instead of live ones; they look quite natural and don't need regular pruning, you can now place these in the aquarium. Try to position your plants so that the taller ones are at the back and the shorter ones towards the front, this will create a pleasing effect and will help to hide equipment, as well as being a natural feature for your fishes.

You will have ended up with a number of plugs at the rear of your tank, use a multi-socket block to plug these into and be sure to keep the wiring tidy. But remember do not to plug any of the equipment into the power before you have put water into the aquarium.

So, now that you've thoroughly enjoyed yourself building your aquarium, the next job is to put the water in.

For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK