Ten Things You Should Know About Pet Lizards

If you are about to obtain your first pet lizard, congratulations. Lizards are, in my view, the most wonderful, fascinating and beautiful creatures on Earth. Part of their appeal is their incredible diversity; there are more species of lizards than all the mammals or amphibians, and they range from three-inch legless burrowers to the mighty 200-pound Komodo dragon. Some are coloured with somber tans and ochre, and others rival the most ostentatious of butterflies with gaudy green, red, and yellow markings. Some glide on fragile wings, some run across the water, and some can stick to ceilings. With my sincere apology to Samuel Johnson, it is my opinion that "when a man gets tired of lizards, he is tired of life"!

That said, here are ten valuable guidelines to help you and your lizard get off to a good start, and stay on a safe and happy course. I speak with a wee bit of experience, having kept lizards since 1961, and going on to spending over 30 years as a professional herpetologist. These tips are just a starting point, but they cover ten really important points!

1) Start by getting a lizard that is easy to care for! Many lizards are very demanding in captivity, and those should be left to experienced keepers. Among the best starter lizards are the Australian bearded dragon and blue-tongue skinks, which grow to a total length near 13-inches. They do not become stressed when properly handled, are generally tame, and eat a wide variety of foods, from fruits, vegetables and flowers to insects, moist dog food and small mice. Savanna monitors are also good for beginners, but get a young specimen and raise it to adult size; freshly imported adults may be aggressive, but captive bred/raised specimens are excellent animals for beginner keepers.

2) Avoid getting a species that people think of as "pets" but are really very challenging to keep properly. Among those species to avoid: iguanas, Nile monitors, chameleons, and small species that grow to only 3 - 8 inches in length.

3) Read up about your lizard, because there is no excuse for doing a poor job as its keeper. For books, you can consult Bibliomania! at www.herplit.com, one of the largest reptile book dealers in existence. Then subscribe to one of the magazines published for reptile keepers, which include REPTILES (www.reptilechannel.com/rmrc_portal.aspx), REPTILIA (www.reptilia.net/html_english/inter-print2.html), REPTILES AUSTRALIA (www.reptilesaustralia.com.au/), and Britain publishes REPTILE CARE (www.reptilecareuk.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=10&Itemid=11).

4) Remember that lizards and snakes are very closely related groups of animals, but lizards need very different care. Unlike snakes that may need food only once a week or month, lizards usually need to eat every day, and sometimes more than once per day. But do not leave rotting or dirty food in the terrarium, because it could be contaminated with germs and cause your lizard to become sick.

5) Do not grab or hold a lizard by the tail. Even though the tail of a bearded dragon, blue-tongue skink, or savanna monitor will not break off, it is uncomfortable for the lizard. Get used to holding the lizard by putting your hand under its belly and supporting its weight from below.

6) Never use your lizard to frighten anyone! Strange as it may sound, some people are afraid of reptiles, and that kind of fear has led to many laws and regulations being passed that make owning reptiles in some places difficult. It is much better for the lizards - and the rest of us keepers - if you use your lizard to help teach other people how wonderful they really are!

7) Never release an unwanted pet reptile into the wild. Most pets are from other continents and will not live long where you live. It is also possible, especially in a place like Florida, that the released pet will do well and, if many such pets have been released, found a colony of foreign animals. This is not good for the local wildlife and really upsets conservationists and Fish and Wildlife officials.

8) All diurnal (active during the daytime) lizards need some ultraviolet light in their lives. But UV light does not penetrate glass, so it doesn't help to put a terrarium near a window. In addition to a heat light (all lizards need a temperature of at least 78 degrees F, many much more), you will need a good full-spectrum UV light. These are now produced to fit in either a screw-in socket or a standard fluorescent tube socket. For examples of excellent products check the Zoo Med website at www.zoomed.com.

9) Always be sure your lizard has access to fresh, clean water! Some lizards only drink dew drops from leaves, but these species are not among the beginner's species. Even desert lizards - and that includes all of the beginner species I've listed - can and will drink from a dish, and even enjoy soaking if the dish is large enough. Soaking also makes skin shedding easier for your lizards.

10) Do not crowd your lizard. If you are getting two lizards to start with, make them both the same species, preferably one of each sex, about the same size, and house them in a terrarium that is large enough. Overcrowded lizards become stressed and may refuse to eat. They are also more likely to catch an illness. If you cannot offer enough space, do not get the lizard. Period.

BONUS TIP 1) A fourth excellent starter lizard is the leopard gecko, a delicate and very popular nocturnal species that has been bred into many colour morphs (it's something like the lizard keeper's equivalent of the guppy!). Unlike the other starter species I mentioned, leopard geckos are smaller (to about 6 inches), have soft, delicate skin, and have tails that are easily broken. Yes, they grow back, but only as stiff rods that never look as good as the original. They also require more gentle handling than the larger starter species. They do not need UV light, but they still need a warm terrarium (70 - 78 degrees at night, 78 -95 degrees by day), sandy soil, and places they can hide. Feed them live insects, especially crickets, young roaches, and wax worms.

BONUS TIP 2) Do not use heat rocks to keep diurnal lizards warm! The lizards are, frankly, not "wired" to know that their bellies are actually cooking, and they may stay on the rock until badly injured or dead! Leopard geckos, however, will be fine with a heat rock or two.

Other things that you should know include washing your hands well after handling your lizards, do not tease or annoy the animals, and be sure to keep the terrarium clean.

The second edition of Dr Sprackland's classic book, "Giant Lizards," is scheduled to be released in October 2008. It not only covers the world's largest lizards, but includes chapters about lizard care and biology that are useful to all reptile keepers. Look for "Giant Lizards, 2nd Edition" published by TFH, Inc., at your favourite pet shop or book seller's.

The author is a professional biologist who teaches human anatomy and physiology. His blogs present a view of human nature as might be observed by a visitor from another world...

The second edition of Dr Sprackland's classic book, "Giant Lizards," is scheduled to be released in October 2008. It not only covers the world's largest lizards, but includes chapters about lizard care and biology that are useful to all reptile keepers. Look for "Giant Lizards, 2nd Edition" published by TFH, Inc., at your favourite pet shop or book seller's.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dr._Robert_Sprackland

Frogs and Salamanders are Amphibians

Not many people know that the common garden frogs and toads come under special category called amphibians. They are called amphibians because they can live both on ground and inside water. They have a special set of lungs that assist respiration irrespective of the location of the animal. The term amphibian is so commonly used these days that any thing that relates to dual life inside water and on ground is referred to as amphibious. They are also called amphibians because there is involvement of water at one particular level in the life cycle of the animal. Let us examine these amphibians one by one.

The amphibians include the general garden frog, salamander, giant salamander, newt, Caecilians, South African Ghost frog, Dancing frog, Bull Frog, Dart Frog, Tree Frog and Gardenia Seychelles. All these animals lead a dual life. They spend more or less equal amount of their life cycle on water and land. For instance, it has been found that amphibians find it extremely difficult to survive in the absence of water. Even, the common garden frog is found in places where there is a lot of moisture. You can even find the garden frogs inside the water tank or fountain in the park or house garden. The frogs are fond of water for several reasons. Whenever they mate, the breeding takes place inside water. The frogs need water as the medium to lay their eggs. The initial phase of the newly born tad poles also known as younglings of frogs need water to sustain a living. These tadpoles contain a special set of gills using which they breathe while in water. Interestingly if the tadpoles are taken out of the water, they will not survive for long. Such is the bonding between the frog's life cycle and water.

After spending a larger part of their life inside water, the tadpoles transform into frogs. During this transformational period, these tad poles rely extensively on water for their food. They feed on a lot of microbial animals called planktons. It is said that a garden water tank is always clean in the presence of frogs. In the absence of water, frogs find it extremely difficult to breed. Some tree frogs, which live inside the jungles with little or no flowing water, have found an innovative way to breed. These frogs rely on the flower dew and tree sap for breeding. For instance, the frogs lay the eggs inside the dew collected flower in which the tadpoles become active once the egg hatches. The tad poles have very little space to move around. However, they continue to survive in such as small space. Unlike garden frogs, which lay eggs in thousands, the tree frogs lay only a few eggs. Since the absence of the ecosystem for breeding is poor when compared to that of the garden frog, the number of eggs laid is less.

Newts are some times tadpoles that fail to grow into the full size of a frog. Such conditions are very normal in the amphibian world. The limbless amphibians are also found in the fresh water.

Article written by Cassaundra Flores, owner of skyfireproducts.com

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Tips For Choosing A Turtle As A Pet

When choosing a turtle as a pet for the first time, new pet owners may be hesitant as they are unsure as to how they should get started. The good news is that choosing a turtle to add to your household is much easier than it may seem. The following will provide some tips on how to choose this friendly animal for your new pet.

Read Up on Turtles First

Before heading out to the store you should read up on turtles either online or in books from your local library or bookstore. By having the requisite knowledge about these creatures you will be better prepared to become a turtle owner. Not only will you learn what items you need to purchase alongside the turtle in order to get started but you will also gain knowledge regarding how to care for your new pet and keep it happy.

Decide What Type of Turtle You Want

It is also a good idea to determine what type of turtle you want to buy. When choosing a turtle as a pet you will be met with a variety of options with regard to turtle species. When reading about turtles, try to figure out which type of turtle is most suitable for your specific living situation. In addition, if you have children in the home, keep in mind that some turtles will be better suited for homes with kids than others will be. Deciding what type of turtle you want right in the beginning will help you to narrow down the turtle options and choose one which is best for you.

Know That Owning a Turtle Is a Commitment

As with any pet, those who buy turtles are making the commitment to care for them properly and keep them content and safe. Know that you will have to feed the turtle, clean the living space and teach the children to treat the turtle gently. Although a turtle may not take as much effort as a cat or a dog will, it is still a pet which needs to be cared for properly and fully.

Try to Find Package Deals on Turtles and Turtle Equipment

You may also find that pet stores offer package deals on animals and accompanying equipment from time to time. The same may be true in the case of a turtle. Try to find a pet store which offers complete packages which may include the turtle, living quarters for your new little friend, food and any other accessories which turtles need to live happily. Choosing a turtle as a pet in the way of a package deal not only will ensure that you have all that you need for your new pet but you may even get a great deal on all of the items as well.

Craig Thornburrow is an acknowledged expert in his field. You can get more free advice on keeping turtles and Turtle Equipment at http://www.keepingturtles.com

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Provide Comfort At Low Cost With Cheap Dog Beds

As soon as we think of keeping a pet dog at our place, we almost simultaneously about all the duties that we are required to perform. One of the most important provisions that we are required to make for our dog is a proper sleeping place. It is easy to provide one now due to the availability of cheap dog beds.

Depending upon the breed of the dog that you have, you can easily choose the bed which suits your pet. It is very important to see the suitability of the bed according to the size of your pet. Any small discomfort can lead the dog being restless in his bed and wanting to leap on you right in the middle of the night. This however cannot be allowed for them, so it is important to get the perfect size for your pet.

There are various varieties available when it comes to choosing a nocturnal retreat for your pet. Large ones are available if your canine is one of those larger breeds. For the smaller dogs, it is important to fix them a bed where they do not feel uncomfortable as too large a bed can lead them to keep moving to warm it the whole night.

A unique one to provide your pet comfort can be the "in" thing for the owner of the pet, so in such cases, unique beds are also available. Designer and luxury ones are also available if the owner wants to splurge and have a customized resting place for their pet.

If your dog is suffering from arthritis and you need a place to rest for him which is made for his problem, orthopedic beds are also available to provide utmost comfort to your pet. Wooden and fleece beds are also available to cater to the specific liking of your canine.

There are various options available for buying beds for dogs in the market. But it is always better when you can compare all the options that are available. Through online researching, you can come across many dealers for these dog beds. Due to competition, you can find out cheap dog beds and buy one according to your choice and suitability for the pet.

Get the best for your pet and give him complete convenience when its time for sleep. After all, only a happy pet will provide you happiness and protection as well.

Mark Joness is the content author of the Dogs Center. After studies at the University of Alabama, he has been involved in teaching english and creative writing. Mr. Jones writes informative topics related to dogs and their breeds. To find smaller dogs, dog beds, cheap dog beds must visit http://www.dogscenter.net

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How To Effectively Control Fleas

Fleas, those pesky blood sucking pests that make pets' lives miserable and humans itch from just a thought, can be impossible to control unless you understand their life cycle and the vulnerability of each life stage. Most pet owners do not understand the flea as evidenced by their most commonly asked questions:

"How can I get rid of fleas once and for all?"

"Do I use pills, dips, shampoos, powders, topical drops, or a combination?"

"How can I get the fleas out of my house?"

"I've got fleas in my car, how can I get rid of them?"

"Why do I have to treat my carpets, the fleas are on the dog, right?"

"Why is my yard infested with fleas? I do not even own a pet?"

The answer: there is no single method or insecticide that will completely eradicate or control the flea. Did you get that? No single method will effectively control fleas because of their complex and multi-faceted life cycle. Preparations that are effective during one stage of the cycle are ineffective during other stages. Therefore, to successfully control fleas, understanding the various life stages becomes paramount.

Collectively, all of the species of fleas are categorized under the order name of Siphonaptera. The cat flea, Ctenocephalides felix, is the most commonly found flea in the US and infests cats, dogs, humans, and other mammalian and avian hosts. Did you get that? Fleas can be found on other mammals and birds.This explains how non-pet owning homes and yards can become flea infested.

Fleas thrive in warm, moist environments and climates, and Southeast Texas, especially the Gulf Coast area, is better suited for flea development than most other areas of the USA. The main food source for the flea is blood from a host animal. 95% of the time, fleas utilize mammalian hosts. But, fleas can also infest avian species (about 5%).

Why does the flea bite itch? Flea saliva, like other biting skin parasites, contains an ingredient that softens, or "digests" the host's skin for easier penetration and feeding. The saliva of fleas is irritating and allergenic -- the cause of all the itching, scratching, and other signs seen with Flea Allergy Dermatitis, or FAD.

Fleas have four main stages in their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The total flea life cycle can range from a couple weeks to several months, depending on environmental conditions. The total flea population is made up of approximately 50% eggs, 30% larvae, 15% pupae, and only 5% biting adults. This means that the majority of the fleas life is spent off the animal making the environment the most logical treatment target rather then the host animal.

ADULT: The adult flea is very flat side to side. There are hair-like bristles on the flea body and legs to aid in their navigation through pet hair. Fleas have 3 pairs of legs, the hindmost pair designed for jumping. The flea is most famous for its jumping abilities.

The adult flea prefers to live on the animal and its diet consists of blood meals courtesy of the host animal. The female flea is very proliferative and lays white, roundish eggs. She can lay up to 50 eggs per day, 1,500-1,600 eggs over several months.

Fleas cannot reproduce without a blood meal, but they can survive for up to a year without feeding provided they do not emerge from the cocoon.

EGG: The eggs are not sticky (like some parasites), and they usually fall off of the animal into the carpet, the pet's bedding, floorboards, or on the ground. Remember, a dog carrying just 10 producing adult females can spread 15,000 to 16,000 eggs in your house over the course of a few short weeks.

The point in time when the flea egg hatches will vary -- anywhere from two days to a few weeks, depending on environmental conditions. The larva emerges from the egg using a chitin tooth, a hard spine on the top of the head that disappears as the flea matures.

The flea egg is relatively non-susceptible to routine flea treatment programs.

LARVA (plural = larvae): The larval stage is actually made up of three developmental stages. Larvae are about 1/4" (6.35 mm) long, and semi-transparent white. They are often mistaken for fly maggots. They have small hairs along their body and actively move. In order to survive, the larvae eat flea dirt, or the feces of adult fleas (which is mostly dried blood) and other organic debris found in the carpet, bedding, soil, and even on your pet.

Depending on the amount of food present and the environmental conditions, the larval stage lasts about 5 to 18 days (longer in some cases) then the larva spins a silken cocoon and pupates.

PUPA (plural = pupae): The pupa is the last stage before the flea becomes an adult. The adult flea can emerge from the cocoon as early as 3 to 5 days, or it can stay in the cocoon for a year or more, waiting for the right time to emerge. Stimuli such as warm ambient temperatures, high humidity, even the vibrations and carbon dioxide emitted from a passing potential host will cause the flea to emerge from the cocoon faster. And, once he emerges from the cocoon, he has only one thing on his mind - a blood meal.

This brings us back to the starting point, the adult flea.

The entire life cycle is quite variable, as evidenced by the variability in each life stage progression. As mentioned above, the cycle can be as short as two weeks or as long as two years. That is why it is so important to remain vigilant. Even when a flea problem is thought to be under control, it probably is not!

The Flea Control Program

Recognizing that during its life cycle, the flea is only on the dog or cat 5% of the time and off 95%, it only makes sense to focus a control program following the same percentages. Invest 5% of your time and money in controlling fleas on your pet and 95% on ridding your environment of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Here's what we suggest:

Irregardless of whether you do or don't have a flea problem, apply once a month spot on type treatments for each of your pets. This should be continued year round - each of the 12 months if you seriously want to eliminate your flea problem or prevent one from occurring.

If you already have a flea problem:

a. Treat the inside of your house with a flea fogger that contains a growth regulator (IGR) and then complete follow up applications 7 and 14 days later for a total of 3 treatments. Severe infestations may require more treatments.

b. Vacuum your floors daily for 21 days.

c. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once weekly for 3 weeks. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum.

d. Wash your pet's bedding using a good detergent. Continue this step every other week, more often if necessary.

e. Treat you lawn with an agricultural limestone product. If possible, add some diatomaceous earth to the mix. Water in thoroughly.

f. If using broad spectrum spray type insecticides, treat your yard daily for 5 days and then follow up with a single application 7 and 14 days later. If you use a granular type, apply once weekly for 4 weeks. Pay particular attention to outside pet sleeping areas.

If you are pro-actively attempting to prevent flea problems:

a. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once monthly. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum.

b. Treat your lawn with agricultural limestone and diatomaceous earth in the spring and again in the fall.

c. Apply a granular type broad spectrum insecticide once monthly from March through and including October.

Please take note - we have not suggested dips, shampoos, or powders. Although these methods are quite effective at killing adult fleas, they do nothing to eliminate the egg, larvae, or pupae infestation. Topical sprays containing growth regulators are more effective, but again they only target 5% of the flea's life cycle. These preparations each have their place in the overall scheme of flea control and it might be best to consult your local Veterinarian, Pest Control Serviceman, or your Feed Store's Pet Consultant for further suggestions.

Bill Bergfeld is a professional Network Marketer and owner of multiple businesses. As a Farm and Ranch Store Pet Consultant, he maintains a website dedicated to flea control and infestation prevention. You can find more information at http://www.profleacontrol.com

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Breeding for Beginners

Probably the most rewarding thing about tropical fish keeping is watching young fish grow from birth to adult size. You can take immense pride in achieving this, but is particularly true for the more difficult species to breed. However beginners should be wary of jumping in at the deep end (so to speak).

Mollies Guppies, Swordtails and Platys are fantastic fish for beginners to breed. They are all live bearer fish types, ie the fish are born live and can swim from the outset. These fish come in an enormous variety of colours and patterns and are great for beginner breeders to hone their newly acquired skills

Probably THE most important tip on breeding tropical fish that bear live young is to keep the baby fish, called fry, away from the rest of your community tank. Adult fish consider fry to be fantastic food, so "keep them apart right from the start". If you don't your breeding efforts will be in vain. In fact, even the mother and father will eat their own young as food.

Your best bet to avoid this fate is to use a separate breeding tank with lots of plants and foliage for the fry to hide in. Once the mother has given birth, she must be returned to the main tank quickly, in order that young fry can grow safely inside the incubator tank.

Water temperature and tank size are both very important when it comes to conditioning tropical fish. Each different breed of fish has a different best breeding temperature, so first determine that. Fish are conditioned to breed when the water temperature signals to them that it is breeding season. If you maintain this optimal temperature, the fish will be more likely to breed. As a general rule, larger tanks tend to produce larger numbers of fry in one birth as well.

Food is also an important factor in the conditioning, try to find out which is the favorite food is your particular type of fish. However as it isn't always possible to obtain 'specialist food', nowadays a well balanced diet can be provided easily in the form of high quality flaked or similar prepared food. Bloodworms, frozen or live are excellent for conditioning most fish.

The joy that you get from breeding fish will be all the more if you follow these basic rules.

Pete owns Tropical Fish Advice which is a resource dedicated to helping individuals interested in all types of Tropical Fish

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Aquarium Water Changing Tips And Guide

Water changing will vary depending on the type of aquarium you are keeping - tropical, cold water or marine - and whether you use tap water or purified water. Water changes are an essential part of fish keeping and, if done properly, cannot be overdone. Remember that in nature the biggest form of filtration is dilution, as waste products are dissipated by the vastness of the body of water, and even the best filters will not remove nitrates and replace essential minerals in your fish tank.

Frequency

It is advisable to replace about 25 per cent of the aquarium water weekly, as this should help to keep nitrates low. If you are using tap water for the changes, test it to make sure that the pH and hardness are to the liking of your fish. Check also that the nitrate level in the tap water is sufficiently low. If the nitrate is reading at 40 parts per million (ppm) or over, it could actually be contributing to a rising nitrate level in the main tank, and if this is the case you should consider finding alternative water sources or purifiers. If you are in any doubt about the suitability of your local tap water, consult your local authority.

Tips : The most effective way to keep a tank clean is to combine water changing with filter maintenance, algae wiping and gravel vacuuming.

Equipment

Set aside some clean buckets and siphon tubes especially for water changes and do not use them for any other purpose, such as washing the car. If you are using large containers to store water, check that they are made from suitable food-grade plastic, because some plastics may cause your fish to die if the chemicals leach into the water. Keep stored water in dark to stop algal blooms forming and run an air stone into it to keep it fresh. If using reverse osmosis water, an air stone placed within it can help to keep the pH stable. If left for too long without aeration, it may become very acidic

Tip: One natural source of tank water is rainwater. It is naturally soft and devoid of minerals, but should be filtered through carbon to remove any traces of pollutants. If you are collecting run-off rainwater from a roof, check that the roof is made from a suitable clean, inert material.

Tank water Dos and Don'ts

Take note of the following points to help you avoid problems in your water-changing routine. Incorrect water changes may do more harm than good.

Do

* If you are using purified water with all the chlorine and minerals removed, first add a mineral additive to replace essential electrolytes, then bring the water up to the appropriate temperature using a heater/thermostat and thermometer

* If you are using tap water bring the water up to the appropriate temperature by using water from a hot kettle or by using a spare heater. Use a thermometer to check the temperature is the same as that in the main aquarium.

* If you are preparing water for a reef aquarium, use only hot water that is free of copper. For this reason, water from the hot tap if generally regarded as unsafe.

* Always dechlorinate water before adding it to the main aquarium. Untreated water can kill beneficial bacteria on all surfaces, such as gravel and decorations, as well as in the filter.

Don't

* Add water that is too cold. It may cause stress and give your fish an outbreak of white spot.

* Add water that is too warm. It will affect oxygen levels in the tank and may kill filter bacteria.

Interested in reading more about fish keeping?

Visit http://www.fishkeepingtalk.com

For those that are interested in my article and intend to post it in your site or blog, please refer it back to my website at http://www.fishkeepingtalk.com

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Dog Agility Training for Fun

Dog agility is a sport in which handler directs a dog off-leash through obstacle course in a race for time and accuracy. Obstacle course consist of various tunnels, jumps, a tire jump, weave poles, a pause table where the dog must sit or lie down for a count of five seconds, and obstacles that the dog must climb. The first dog agility performance was as entertainment at the Crufts dog show in 1978 and became a success that is now gaining popularity worldwide. It demonstrates dog's ability to be versatile, quick and agile. All types and breeds of dogs can join in this sport. Even children and puppies are encouraged to participate in this event. If you do not want to compete and want to join the agility just for fun, you can do so in non-competitive agility classes.

In an agility training course, training obedience is the basic key. Dogs are trained to be obedient to their owner or the handler. The dogs must know and obey the different commands such as sit, halt or stop, lay down and other commands that can be used during the agility course. Dog agility equipment is necessary during the training. In purchasing dog agility equipment, there are things that you have to consider. First, you have to consider the dog. Use appropriate equipment for your dog's size, breed, and age. Second, adjustable equipment is recommended to be used on your dog, this way; you can adjust it to the level of training. Go for portability of the equipment. If do not want to spend most of your time assembling the course, choose dog agility equipment that can be put together easily or already assembled.

Consult a veterinarian before starting the agility training to ensure that your dog is in good physical health and have the necessary vaccines to participate in the training. Making sure that your dog has the strength and endurance to overcome one obstacle after another. Dog agility training helps develop the bonding between the pet owner or handler and the dog. Talk to your dog and offer treats for an accomplished command or task.

Find more helpful information on Agility Equipment, Dog Training Equipment and Dog Training Aids.

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Dog Training Methods

Dogs and puppies start out very cute and in their owner's mind, they can do no wrong. But soon the honeymoon stage is over and a particular behavior of man's best friend makes them not so cute anymore. Problems with canines can range from separation anxiety, fence jumping, digging and excessive barking. Most of the problems start with a trigger that sparks the bad behavior. With patience and commitment, proper dog training techniques can relieve a tense atmosphere where dogs and humans can live together in harmony.

The following are specific behavior problems and quick suggestions on how to correct the dog's bad manners.

Chewing Problems

Dog training for chewing can start by giving your dog dozens of tasty dog chews and toys specifically made for him. The more toys, the less chance he will find shoes or furniture to chew on. Be clear to your dog that just those specific toys are to be used for chewing. Exercise your dog as much as possible because a bored dog is a mischievous dog. The most important tip to stop chewing is to constantly stop the behavior before it becomes a habit.

Separation Anxiety

You are your dog's total world. When the time that you spend with your dog is interrupted by leaving to run errands or go to work, they do not understand the separation and may act out in an undesirable way. Relieve their distress by leaving a piece of clothing in their bed that has your sent on it. Also, give your dog plenty of exercise so that he will have a good rest while you are gone. Leave the radio on while you are away. Your dog may feel more comfortable with background sound playing while he sleeps. This type of dog training is a loving way to train and not using punishing methods for corrections.

Jumping on People

This behavior can be dangerous as well as annoying, but your dog is just showing you that he is happy to see you or seeking attention. Both can be harmful especially to children and the elderly. Start changing this behavior by turning away from them when they jump and do not give eye contact. This is the quickest way to deflect the problem. They will soon learn that jumping on people does not give him the positive reaction he is looking for. While dog training, have treats at your door and on your person to give your dog something else to do when he is tempted to jump.

No breed is exempt from habitual bad behaviors. Plenty of patience, love and commitment can turn your dog into a calm, loving member of the family.

This article can be freely published on a website as long as it's not modified in any way including the author bylines, plus the hyperlink must be made active just like below.

Visit his website http://www.softwarereviewshop.com

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Pet Poisoning Symptoms - Your Rhubarb Plants Can Be Harmful

It is a well known fact to many, that a substance called oxalate is quite prevalent in the leaves of the rhubarb plant. It is quickly absorbed into the bloodstream if ingested and can cause severe problems.

Rhubarb lovers and gardeners alike know that only the stems are eaten, and the leaves are cut off at harvest time. Some of us faithfully wear gloves at all times. Some do not. Some people compost the leaves. Others make a quick trip to the garbage dump. There is some debate on the severity of the dangers.

Yet, with all we know, and all we have read, how many of us put our pets outside on a daily basis?

We consistently send our pets outdoors to wander the property to enjoy the sun, get some fresh air and exercise or simply to do their business. We don't give this daily routine any second thought.

I bet that a huge chunk of the population never really considers the danger a simple garden plant can pose to a curious animal. It isn't due to a lack of caring or concern for our beloved pets. I think it is simply a case of wishful thinking and crossed fingers that our pet will return in the same state as when he left.

Animals are so instinctively curious and notorious for getting into things they should avoid.

Humans know better, or at least we should. Animals do not, and so we should be aware that the symptoms displayed by rhubarb poisoning in pets are very similar to those displayed in humans.

A pet in trouble will typically display the signs in the form of excessive drooling or vomiting or both. They will obviously be not too steady on their feet and appear to be staggering. Your pet may show signs of obvious abdominal pain when touched. Eventually he may even go into convulsions. Would you know how to handle this, seeing that your pet is in distress?

The most obvious thing to do I believe, would be to immediately call your veterinarian for his opinion.

You are sure to be advised to get your pet medical attention. Instructions have been published on how to give an animal ipecac to induce vomiting. I don't believe this is the best thing to do, simply because we are not qualified to determine if that is the solution. I would not use the hydrogen-peroxide and water mixture either for the same reason. Vomiting can even enhance the problem on the way back up as well.

I also don't believe this is a good idea, as it means physically forcing your pet to do this while they are distressed. I speak from experience that the worst thing you can do, is put your hands around the face of a pet who is severely agitated. If you think there is poison in a rhubarb leaf, consider the bacteria contained in the front long fangs of a cat. While trying to comfort a distressed pet, I was immediately bitten on the knuckle. My hand became horribly red and inflamed overnight. It swelled to an incredible size much to the worry of my doctor. That is a dangerous situation, and took two weeks to begin to heal.

Get some assistance, wear heavy gloves and muzzle your pet if you can. Transport them in a carrier to your vet and keep them warm with a familiar blanket. Take vomit samples with you. Have a sample of the leaf if possible.

If you are not sure to begin with how serious the situation is, call your local SPCA, or Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435. Be as ready for them with information as you would with your own child.

We need to discipline ourselves as responsible pet lovers to improve our efforts to keep them safe in their own surroundings. We should be faithfully accompanying them when we put them outside to roam freely. We should be there to guide them away from any garden dangers. We need to put barriers around the dangerous parts of our gardens. Better yet, we should have specific places for them to roam where they are restricted to that one safe area only.

Elizabeth Orr http://www.savor-the-rhubarb.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elizabeth_Orr

Pet Nutrition and Health - Consider Grooming!

Groomers do more than just trim hair and toenails. The observant groomer can detect changes in skin condition, hair/coat condition, he/she will notice changes in temperament and reactions to stimulus. The groomer naturally is exposed to many different conditions of many animals and with the gained knowledge has an ability to consider and compare conditions.

Starting with hair condition, numerous circumstances can create a lack of luster and sheen that doesn't appear normal. This can be caused by nutrition, fleas and lice, allergies, parasites, hair cleaning products (shampoo) or even environmental problems. An experienced groomer can often detect the cause of a dry or blotchy skin, based on previous grooming examinations. The groomer may ask if the pet's diet has been changed or inquire about other possible factors such as age and take these into consideration before recommending possible solutions. Importantly an experienced groomer also knows when a veterinarian's advice is needed.

Responsible groomers have a close relationship to local veterinarians which they can call upon for advice and help when needed. They also keep records of all pet visits to compare ongoing variations of a pet's condition and for grooming requirements.

Another important health issue observed by groomers is ears. Dogs have deep canals subject to ticks, parasites and other issues such as wax buildup, dirt and so forth that can cause infections. Cats ears have smaller canals, but are subject to many of the same problems. Ear cleaning compounds are available commercially for pet parents to care for their pet's ears.

Proper toe nail trimming is necessary and most groomers have had extensive experience with it. Problems can arise from too close trimming (drawing blood), This normally will heal naturally, but infections can evolve so watch closely.

Observing eyes for clarity and excess tearing is important to determine if there are problems or conditions that need attention. Pets can develop cataracts and retinal problems similar to humans.

There are just a few of the observations to which concerned groomers pay attention. Their expertise and abilities combined with experience can prevent many problems and create a happy and healthy environment for you and especially your pets.

Be sure to interview and/or get recommendations before choosing a groomer. Anyone can start a grooming business, but few possess the determination, experience and concern that is required to be a first rate groomer/care giver.

Your pet's health is as important as your health is to you.

Richard Monson is an entrepreneurial spirit with many interests. Pets are continuous companions in his life. Having lived on a farm he has concern for animals and out of necessity has studied animal nutrition and health. His interests in chemistry, physics and biology have provided him with the curiosity to look for answers beyond the usual methods. His pet website is at: http://www.NotablePets.smmsite.com/13397

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Avoid Disease in Your Aquarium

The most important objective in keeping tropical fish is to replicate the natural environment that the fish originally came from. There is a natural balance that fish like between water, plants, aeration and quality of water. If the tank is in balance - in general you will not get disease.

Out of Balance

However there are many simple reasons why your tank may move out of balance, causing stress to the fish and encouraging disease in the tank:

* The introduction of a new fish

* Too many fish

* Too little air circulation

* Too small a surface area

* Introduction of new plants

* Poor maintenance regime giving poor water quality.

Most aquarium disease can be avoided by making sure your aquarium water is healthy. Neglecting the appropriate tank maintenance and partial water changes will allow toxins to build up in the water, basically polluting your fish's environment. As the water becomes more toxic your fish become more "stressed", the more stressed your fish becomes the easier it is for the micro organisms present in your aquarium water to infect your fish with various diseases.

However, there are many diseases that can affect your aquarium fish and once your tank is infected, there's a good change that all your fish will get sick. If disease does break out, doing a partial water change and treating the water for the particular disease is the best way to nip it in the bud. If you don't do these two things your tank is liable to fail.

Stressed Fish

In addition to keeping good water quality in your aquarium, you should also keep an eye on your fish each day so that you can be alerted to any signs of stress right away and take the appropriate action.

Stressed tropical fish give out some tell tale signs you can be on the look out for including:

· Rubbing themselves against the gravel or aquarium décor

· Hiding in the corner or under plants or rocks all the time

· Floating at an angle with their fins close to they body

· Any growths or white fuzzy spots.

Of course, the first step in treating aquarium disease is preventing it...

Keep your aquarium in balance and it will help you enjoy beautiful healthy fish for years to come...

Pete owns Tropical Fish Advice which is a resource dedicated to helping individuals interested in all types of Tropical Fish

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pete_Wright

How To Prevent And Treat Popeye In Your Betta Fish

If you have ever woke up to your siamese fighting fish staring back out at you all bug-eyed, you are not alone. Congratulations. Your Betta fish has something known as exophthalmia aka Popeye. And the new bug-eyes that your betta is sporting is the symptom of two potential problems:

• mycobacterial infection (which is easily treatable)
• tuberculosis (not so treatable)
• parasitic infection
• Ichthyophonus or Ick (another bacterial infection and highly treatable)
• eye flukes
• internal metabolic disorders

Either way, the reason why your betta's eyes are protruding is because there is likely an abscess behind the eye.

How to Treat Popeye in Betta Fish

If the cause of Popeye is a mycobacterial infection, you should go ahead and first treat the root of the bacteria itself. This is easily done by cleaning the tank water and ensuring that the pH balance of the water is just slightly acidic. On a side note, nearly all bacterial infections found in bettas and other fish that are pets can be prevented or in the very least you can reduce the risk of them by doing keeping the water clean and monitoring the pH balance.

Additionally, you can treat the water with Tetracycline or Terramycin, two very popular antibacterial medications that you can purchase at your local pet store. The standard is to add this in the water....100 mg of the antibiotic for every 4 oz. of food.

If this doesn't work, you can try these other methods for a quick fix that also work well as a preventative measure for your betta....

• Warm the water to 86 degrees. You will want to do this gradually at a rate of 1 degree per hour. The water temperature should already be in the high 70 degree range.
• Add a little salt to the water- The key is "little". Don't give your betta fish a salt bath. The percentage of salt added to the water should be no higher than .6%

Both of these quick fixes will help to keep bacterial infections at bay. It is important to note that if your fix is exhibiting signs of Popeye, you should avoid contact. Although it is unlikely your betta has tuberculosis, it is transmissible to humans through open sores.

In conclusion, Popeye is treatable and like most bacterial infections, the cause is normally dirty water or a low pH. The best way to prevent Popeye is to make sure your betta fish is in a stress free environment. That means clean water, good food, and nice warm water.

For more information on Popeye as well as other Betta fish information, you can check out Leo's betta fish site.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Leo_Dimilo

The Skin As An Indicator of Health and Disease

The skin of a healthy stabled horse should be elastic, smooth, clean and slightly warm. The coat should be fine, smooth, glossy and clean and give the horse a sleek appearance. Horses at grass build up a layer of protective grease which should not be removed by grooming as it helps them withstand cold and wet conditions. It is normal and healthy for a grass-kept horse to have a more greasy skin and coat and to have a longer coat in winter.

The skin can be affected by local problems but it is also the best indicator that the horse owner has of the horse's general health and condition. The coat may become dry and dull. If it is not lubricated by normal sebaceous secretions; this is a well-known sign of digestive problems and worm infestation. The horse is said to be hidebound when the skin is tight and does not move freely over the underlying structures. This can be due to dehydration and lack of subcutaneous fat and is also seen in grass sickness and poorly nourished horses.

The colour of the mucus membranes of the eyes, gums and tongues is also used as a guide to health; the membranes should be a salmon pink colour and may be pale if the horse is anaemic or red if the horse is fevered.

Other more obvious signs of disease include wounds, heat, pain, swelling, bruising, blisters, ulcers, abscesses and scabs. These signs may be due to a number of causes -bacterial (mud fever), fungal (ringworm), viral (warts), parasites (warbles), allergy (urticaria), injury (ill-fitting tack) or sunlight (photosensitisation).

Unexplained sweating or evidence of dried sweat may indicate that the horse has been in pain (colic), fevered or perhaps cast in its stable.

It can be seen that a daily inspection of the horse's skin and coat is an essential stable management routine. It should not be confined to visual inspection and the horse owner must also feel for any changes. This is best done during the daily grooming session.

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Taking Care of Your Horses In The Heat

We go to great lengths to make ourselves comfortable in the hot weather, air conditioning, fans, cold drinks. What should we do to ensure our horses are also comfortable through our hot, dry and dusty summer?

1. On the priority list -

WATER is definitely right at the top! As a general rule of thumb, horses drink 3-4% of their body weight each day, with this percentage increasing following work or during hot conditions. A 550kg horse will therefore drink (in normal conditions) around 22 litres of water per day, with 50 litres not out of the question in hot weather or after work. If your horse is getting his water supply via buckets don't forget to take into account the evaporation factor, and also ensure that water remains cool. If it becomes tepid, your horse may not drink and could suffer from dehydration. Be aware that you may have to replace or top up during the day. Obviously the best scenario is for your horse to have access to clean, fresh water where he can just meet his own requirements. Horses should be cooled down after work however before being allowed free access to water.

2. On the priority list -

Your horse, like yourself, will appreciate being able to get out of the direct sun in the heat of the day. Therefore shade is important. If there are no trees to provide shade in the paddock, a roofed shelter is desirable. if your stables are cool and well ventiliated, you may decide to keep your horse in during the day and out at night.

3. On the priority list -

Light rugs, sometimes referred to as 'fly sheets', are useful in keeping your horse comfortable in the heat and less annoyed by insects (hint: light colours deflect the heat). Fly veils can also provide your horse with a higher degree of comfort in the daylight hours, but for safety, check regularly. A good fly control program is important as flies and other biting insects can carry diseases, cause sores, annoy any existing wounds and provoke allergic reactions. You may wish to regularly apply a fly repellent, there are a number on the market that are purposely designed for horses. Covering your horse up from the sun will also ensure that his coat does not suffer any "bleaching" .

4. On the priority list -

If your horse has a pink muzzle or other sun sensitive parts on his body, apply zinc cream or sun block. For the muzzle you can attach a U.V. flap from the headstall to protect his nose from the sun. 5 On the priority list - When temperatures really soar, your horse will enjoy a cool hosing or sponging down, to bring down his body temperature. Make sure you scrape the water off afterwards though or it will form a blanket of its own and trap heat to the horse.

6. On the priority list -

If possible do not stable a hot horse. Standing still in a confined area whilst hot can cause the horse's temperature to rise even higher. Walk the horse in the open air to cool off and allow him to stand where there is plenty of air to flow over his body. If possible, plan your ride to avoid the hottest part of the day, kinder on you and him!.

7. On the priority list -

Assess the availability of summer feed and the body weight/condition of your horse regularly as paddock pasture is soon dried out and burnt off by the sun. You should supplement his diet with hay when the pasture is minimised as the digestive system of the horse is designed to continually process fibre.

8. On the priority list -

You should also develop in advance a plan of action to be carried out in the eventuality of a bush fire. The development of a survival plan that meets your individual needs is important. Whether you decide that you would transport your horse to a safe district, or place him in the safest part of the property (which may be a closely grazed paddock, green swampy area, well fenced large sand menage), the main thing is to have a plan in place.

9. On the priority list -

You should also make every effort to remove any fire hazards such as long, excessive grass and leaf litter from around buildings and stables. Clean gutters regularly and store hay, shavings etc. away from the stable block throughout summer.

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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