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Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Breeding Angelfish

Breeding angelfish is an activity that is gaining a lot of popularity in the aquarium keeping community. Angelfish come from the cichlid family and tend to be aggressive sometimes. This guide will give you a couple tips on how and when to breed your angelfish. There are many breeds on Angelfish, and most of them have generally the same breeding habits. The main things you should take into consideration when breeding angelfish, is temperament and care level.

The first thing you are going to do when breeding is to start to pair off the Angelfish into groups of 1 male, 1 female. You want to start out by purchasing 8-10 angelfish, try to get an equal number of males and females. After you pair them off, they should bond together and start to pair off, swapping them out should pose little problem. Don't get discouraged if the first spawn doesn't turn out as planned. It is normal for the first batch to get eaten or not to spawn at all, you should just get a few fry out of the batch. With the fish that do pair up and go off to spawn, you should be able to get plenty of fry from their efforts.

You should move the fry to a different tank once they hatch and place them into jars to provide them a place of shelter while they get their feel on swimming. You should be sure to feed them plenty of newly hatched mysis shrimp for the best possible results. This is a more expensive method, and if your fish pairs take care of their brood, you should just leave them in the aquarium to allow nature to take its course. A 33 gallon tank should be able to host about 250 pea size angelfish to grow into dime sized. If you do this, you should change the water at least 3 times a week.

Within about 3 months, your angelfish should grow a little larger about the size of a nickel. You should keep plants in the aquarium to absorb the nitrate levels. After a bit of time, pick the best out of the batch and keep 100 in an aquarium of about 33 gallons to grow them out. It will take around 6 months to fully pick out the best from your stock. Just remember that Angelfish do tend to eat some of the fry when they first spawn, so it is best to separate them for a little while until the fish can grow a little larger and fend for themselves.

Well I hope you found this little article a bit helpful for breeding your angelfish. If you start to feel discouraged, just remember, it takes a while to get the hang of this. Breeding angelfish can be difficult and it will take a little while before you can completely get it down to a science. Breeding angelfish is a very rewarding experience, one that I recommend any serious Angelfish owner try to experience.

Getahugetank.com offers custom aquariums, large fish tanks, and aquarium supplies.

Clownfish Care

Clownfish are a very popular saltwater fish. They are very peaceful and colorful additions to the aquarium. Clownfish are normally found in the Eastern Indian and Western Pacific Ocean. Clownfish have been growing in popularity over the years to become one of the most kept saltwater fish. Before you start to head out and pick up your very own clownfish, there are a couple things you should consider. In this article I will offer a bit of advice to owning clownfish.

Clownfish do need a fair amount of care as opposed to other fish. You will need to provide a stable saltwater aquarium for them to live in. You need to look up the specific instructions for the type of clownfish you want to house and then adjust accordingly with your aquarium size. After you pick out the aquarium, you are going to need to find the appropriate lighting and filtration systems to place in the aquarium. You have to have a good filtration system to provide the best possible environment for the clownfish.

Once you get the hang of the basics, you should add a sea anemone that is compatible with the species of clownfish that you pick. Clownfish have a symbiotic relationship with Sea Anemones and it is recommended that you place the two together for the best possible results. Also you can see how the clownfish interacts with the anemone. Anemones can be very hard to keep alive in the aquarium, and it is definitely not recommended for beginning aquarium owners. Sea Anemones generally do not live more than 2 years even with the experienced aquarium owner.

You should provide a mate for your clownfish. Clownfish do much better in pairs, and they can also produce their offspring in the aquarium. Clownfish have an amazing ability to switch sexes, but all clownfish are first born as males. You can pair a male and a female together and then breed them to keep or sell their offspring.

It is quite a sight to see parent clownfish swimming around with their litter in the aquarium. The fry will take some time to grow up, and if you are serious about breeding your clownfish, there are some very interesting and in depth guides on the internet that I would recommend looking at.

I hope you found this article helpful in your pursuit of owning clownfish. Anemones are definitely not required to enjoy the ownership of your clownfish. Just setup your aquarium with plenty of rocks with nooks and crannies for your fish to swim through. Owning a clownfish will take a little bit of practice to get the hang of, but don't be discouraged.

If you pay close attention to your pets needs, you should never have a problem with keeping the clownfish. I recommend you browse many sites on the internet to get a better picture on the specific needs of your clownfish, there are plenty of online retailers that are more than happy to go through all the details of keeping this fish. Thank you for reading the article, and good luck with your new pet!

Getahugetank.com offers acrylic aquariums, large fish tanks and aquarium supplies.

Friday, August 8, 2008

Why Should You Dress Your Dogs?

Dog fashions can be fun! Your dog can look flirty, funky, flashy or glamorous. Never before in the history of our dog have there been so many fun choices to make. There are clothes and shoes, and an overwhelming choice of collars, leashes and dog carriers.

Dog fashions can also practical. If all you are interested in is keeping your dog warm on chilly days and nights, you certainly will find the perfect sweater, jacket of fleece shirt. We as humans really share a common trait with our dogs. We both love attention! We enjoy dressing our dogs up in the latest of dog clothes, hats and jewelry because it is interactive. People stop and talk about it. The same is true when we humans dress up in the latest of fashion. It's fun. It opens up channels of communication with others and gives us the attention, whether we admit it or not, we all crave.

For those of us with little toy dogs, the days of putting on a plain acrylic sweater are over. Top dog clothes designers are making trendy, fashionable dog clothes. There are dresses out there that match the same little dresses you might have worn as a kid. There is rainwear, real leather and faux fur, boots and hats, necklaces and hair jewelry by the dozens. It is actually enough to make your head swim! If you are indecisive like I am, that is. This revolution in dog fashions is just as varied as human clothing. You can spend hundreds of dollars on an outfit or very little and still have your little dog looking fabulous. Dressing your dog is here to stay.

Clothes for Warmth:

If you and your little toy dog will outside in Maine in the winter, it truly matters that your little guy is in a nice, warm coat. Sure your main objective here is to keep the little guy warm, but it is more fun if that coat is "mink," or even faux fur. Wow! How cute can that be? Real cute! Even long-coated little dogs sometimes need a little help keeping warm. Small dogs do lose their body heat much faster and are prone to hypoglycemia. A fleece t-shirt inside is also great to help keep your little guys from losing too much body heat.

Clothes for Worried Dogs:

When you are a Teacup Shih Tzu and you only weigh 5 pounds, you will have lots to worry about if the larger size Shih Tzu is around. Dressing the little guys in clothes will actually relieve some of the tensions between them and their rivals - the bigger guys. It creates calming to wrap up your little guy in something warm and cozy like a fleece t-shirt or sweater for inside. It gives the little guys more confidence.

Dogs like attention. When you dress up your dog in a beautiful party dress, people pay that attention. Your little dog will probably respond with lots of tail wagging and an increase self confidence. Most dogs love to interact with people and clothes are very good conversation starters. Dress your dog up in something really, really pretty and unusual and have fun watching her/his reactions when people stop and tell him or her just how precious they look. People won't be able to resist smiling and petting your little dog. Dressing up your pet in beautiful dog fashions is definitely a way for the two of you to meet new people anywhere you decide to go.

How to Stop Your Dog From Whining

If your dog is an adult, there are a variety of reasons why he/she may be whining:

  • Something hurts
  • Nothing to do/ a little lonesome
  • Has to go outside the house
  • Is nervous or afraid of something

In order to know what steps to take to get your dog to stop whining you will need to know what is causing it. The cause may be justified but even still you will need to know so you don't cause further damage and cause your dog to whine even more regularly. There are also dog training courses and programs to help you with this.

  • When she's whining because something hurts

If your dog's whining has been sudden and then consistent afterward it is probably because of some kind of discomfort. Check her over to see whether there's any bruises or open wounds. First, check for the obvious signs: Is she favoring one leg over another or moving about strangely? As you check her over remember to try to be gentle: if she is hurting, you don't want to make it worse. Run your hand down her tail to check for lumps, too. Even if you can't find anything seriously wrong, if you believe she's whining out of pain, schedule an appointment with your vet.

  • When she's whining because she is lonely and bored

You will know if your dog is whining because she is bored if she is pacing all around the house, following you constantly and seeming unsettled. The best cure for this is simple exercise. Get her out of the house and run a few laps or play fetch. A tired dog is a happy dog so it is vital to implement exercise for your dog into a regular routine. But it is important to do this before she starts whining. Otherwise your dog will think "Whining gets me a trip outside for some fun", and this dog psychology will have you being the slave of your dog's cries. Spend time with her and make sure she has plenty of toys to play with in your absence.

  • When she's nervous or afraid of something

Usually, it'll be obvious to tell if your dog is whining out of fear or anxiety. If she's afraid, it means there's a direct cause to her fear - like a thunderstorm or another dog outside. Any change in a regular routine can cause anxiety and so can sensing your anxiety. Yes, dog's do feed off our energy as well. Don't punish or correct her for whining out of fear or anxiety but do not encourage it either by automatically comforting her. It may sound heartless, but for her own sake it is better to ignore her, otherwise she will never learn to cope with her own fears and will be insecure. When you validate your dog's fears you will also be telling her to keep it up and that it's fine to be afraid of things like thunder, even if all you are doing is trying to soothe her with pats on the head. Don't baby her; instead however, distract her with something she likes, or get her to do some tricks. Change the gears in her brain to something other than her fear and she will see that it really is nothing to be afraid of.

  • If she has to go outside the house

Whining to go outside is actually a good thing and a sign of a well-trained house dog. She is trying to communicate with you that she does not want to go in the house. Every dog owner will usually know the certain expression a dog will give when it's time for this. The obvious answer is to let her out and to encourage this behavior by having a treat waiting for her when she comes in. Try to make this a regular thing if she is a house dog that will be in the house mostly. She will not only know that it is good to go outside and not inside but she will know to come back inside when she is done for that tasty treat.

Further Reading

For more information (that I highly recommend) on dog training techniques and the ultimate guide to dog training and behavioral problems visit here: http://www.squidoo.com/what-is-the-best-dog-training-book

Fishless Cycling - A Better Method For Your New Tropical Aquarium

Once you have set up your tropical aquarium the next step is to 'cycle' it. This process is the production of beneficial bacteria that will process the waste ammonia from your fish and convert it into nitrites and then relatively harmless nitrates. After adding fish to an uncycled tank the toxic ammonia and nitrite levels will rise to a dangerous high until there are sufficient numbers of bacteria to convert them into less toxic nitrates. In order to overcome this methods have been devised to encourage the growth of the bacteria. The traditional method is to add a few 'hardy' fish that will produce ammonia to encourage bacteria growth while the tank is 'cycling'. This method is very stressful for the fish, many of which die or are damaged by the process. The toxic ammonia burns the gills and leads to permanent damage. At the end of the 'cycling' you are left with fish in poor condition which you may not want in your aquarium.

A better, more humane method to cycle the tank is to use a fishless cycling method. It uses household ammonia as a source, rather than live fish, and a bacteria culture obtained from a healthy tank or purchased from an aquarium supplier.

The Bacteria Starter Culture

You can obtain a starter bacteria culture by adding some gravel, filter medium or rock from a healthy, aged tropical fish tank. If you do not have a source there are commercial products available, for example StressZyme or Hagen's Cycle. The culture will give a quick start to producing a colony of bacteria but you can also use this method without a starter culture. It will take a bit longer then to cycle your tank.

The Ammonia

Purchase some unscented, additive free 100% ammonia. Some aquarium supply shops are now selling ammonia for this purpose. If you know a chemist or science teacher they may be able to get you some pure ammonia from a laboratory supplier..

The Tank Temperature

The bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) thrive best at higher temperature than is usually used for a tropical tank so during the cycling increase the temperature to between 30 and 35 C (85-95F). When you add the fish you can turn it down again.

Testing Kit

A testing kit to check the ammonia and nitrite levels is essential to test the levels and to indicate when cycling is complete.

The Fishless Cycling Method

Extra aeration is recommended while cycling as bacteria need oxygen to grow. Increase the aeration through the tank and filter if possible. You could add an extra air stone or even use an extra pump if one is available. Add your bacteria culture, then add about a teaspoon of ammonia for a small tank. Increase this for a larger tank. Allow about an hour for the ammonia to circulate then test. The ammonia level should be between 5 mg/L (or 5ppm). Add some more ammonia if the level is too low. Leave the tank alone for a few days then test again.

At this stage the ammonia level should begin to drop and the nitrite level to rise. This means that the bacteria are doing their job of processing the ammonia. Add some more ammonia when it drops to zero to give the bacteria more to work on. The nitrite level should rise until it reaches a maximum then begin to drop as the nitrites are converted into relatively harmless nitrates. Three or four days after the maximum nitrite levels are seen the nitrite level should drop to zero. The cycling is now complete.

Change about 50-70% of the water, carefully so as not to disturb the filter or the gravel bed where the bacteria are colonised. Reset the temperature to 25°C, or the recommended temperature for your intended fish and allow the temperature to stabilise for a few hours. Retest for ammonia and nitrites and if the levels are zero you can now begin to add some fish.

It is possible after cycling the tank to add all the fish in one go but this will result in a spike in the ammonia and nitrite levels which is stressful for the fish and could cause them to become diseased. adding the fish slowly will allow the bacteria to grow to cope with the added levels of ammonia excreted by the fish. Even for a fully cycled tank it is advisable to gradually add the fish. aim to take about a month to fully stock the tank.

A fishless cycling method is more efficient and produces a fully cycled tank in a much shorter time than the traditional method of using hardy fish. It is also more humane and you will not be left with unwanted, often damaged fish, at the end.

For more information about aquariums and fish keeping check out Cheap Aquariums for Sale or Cheap Acrylic Aquariums

Monday, July 14, 2008

Psychedelic Toads - The Pets That Pack a Powerful Punch

You may already have heard about the Colorado River Toad, also known as the Sonoran Desert Toad, but didn't realize it. Do you remember a silly song by Mason Williams in 1964 that gained some popularity called "Them Toad Suckers"? Or perhaps you have heard the urban legend that people can get high by licking a certain kind of toad. These notions are based on the scientific fact that the Bufo Alvarius toad has glands that secrete a very unusual substance. On its legs, behind its eyes and over its ears are glands that appear to be large sized bumps, and they secrete a venom that is milky looking in appearance. This venom is a dangerous substance. It is powerful enough to kill a cat, dog or even a human being, conceivably, if they were unfortunate enough to ingest a sufficient quantity of the stuff. Besides being toxic in the digestive system, it also can irritate eyes and nasal areas seriously. For this reason, people who handle Colorado River Toads should be very cautious always to wash their hands afterwards.

Why, then, you may be wondering, are these bizarre creatures kept as pets by owners who say they are cute and who take loving care of them? The reason is a bit perverse. It is because the venom of the Bufo Alvarius toad, in addition to being poisonous, also contains large quantities of a chemical alkaloid called 5-MEO-DMT, which happens to be a powerfully hallucinogenic substance. If this venom is dried and then smoked in a pipe, for example, it is said to induce a psychedelic effect that may include hallucinations, visual illusions, distorted perception, unusual brightness and beauty and a mood of euphoria that may include unmotivated laughing. These effects are said to be of relatively short duration and the experience has often been described as pleasant.

It is because the hallucinogenic or psychedelic properties of toad venom have similarities to those of other controlled substances, including cannabis, LSD, magic mushrooms and peyote cactus, lawmakers, police officers and other law enforcement officials in some jurisdictions, particularly in the United States of America, are looking to make possession of a Bufo Alvarius toad illegal. In come areas, individuals who were found to be owning a Sonoran Desert Toad have already been charged with committing a crime. Because of these legal issues, any person who is interested in keeping a Colorado River Toad as a unique pet should do his or her homework and learn more about the rules that govern their particular community, or else they may perhaps risk stepping afoul of the law.

There are several ways a person may obtain a Bufo Alvarius toad. These include capturing them in the wild and purchasing them. There are now online information sources that reveal details about where people can find or buy a Colorado River toad for themselves if they so desire.

For specifics about how and where to get a Bufo Alvarius toad, visit the Bufo Alvarius Report website at http://bufoalvariusreport.com

Why Your African Grey Parrot Needs Calcium Supplements

Feeding the right food is the most important aspect of owning an African Grey parrot. The right diet will determine the health and stress level of your parrot and its ability to be trained to talk. Unlike other birds, different African Greys eat different kinds of food. Don't make the mistake of thinking that they all have the same diet patterns. If you own more than one African Grey parrot, feeding them can prove a challenge. Just like humans, they have their own preferences. But if you acquire your bird from young, say twelve weeks old, getting them used to feeding a certain kind of food can be fairly advantageous.

Some African Greys will eat soft fruit and others will only eat hard fruits. Some will eat vegetables and others will not. Try giving your parrots a variety of fruits and vegetables and see what they like best, and stick to it. But do give them a good balance of calcium because a lot of African Greys who fell sick seem to lack calcium in their diet. You can get calcium from from hard boiled eggs, watercress, spinach, blackberries or natural yogurt.

If your parrot doesn't seem to want to eat any of these calcium based food, try giving them calcium supplements three times a week, mixed into their food bowl. Do not mix the calcium supplements into the water bowl because some greys may not drink water in a twenty-four hour period because they already had their water intake from eating fruits. A good calcium diet will ensure that your parrots have fine feather and are stress free. For breeding African Greys, calcium is good for producing healthy eggs.

A healthy diet is important for an African Grey because it will minimise feather plucking and squeaking, both symptoms of stress in a bird. A healthy diet produces a healthy mind and your parrot will respond well to speech training.

Azmi Adnan is a writer and a bird enthusiast. Subscribe to his newsletter for fresh video clips on parrots and other bird species, ezines and interesting bird stories at his website http://www.power-to-live.com/parrot.html


Monday, July 7, 2008

Dogs - Canine Superheros

Canines really are man's best friend. They have not only kept us company for ages, they have put their lives on the line for us. There are countless accounts of dogs saving people. Not only from other humans, and other disasters, but even medical emergencies. Their service is endless. These are dogs not only with service training, but everyday household pets. Most pet owners could never believe their beloved Fido's actions when it came down to the line. Maybe today's canines should have more respect in this society that seems to care so little about them.

Both service dogs, and your average household pets have saved their owners from intruders time and time again. In Edmonton a police dog "Indy" saved a forty three year old woman from an attacker, when the man had barricaded doors not allowing police officials to enter. In Cannonsburg, Pa an infant wondered out of his home into freezing temperatures, wearing only a tee-shirt. No one noticed the tiny Vincent, except the neighbors family dog R.C. This brave husky mix moved the baby into his house of straw and curled up on the young child saving him from not only hypothermia but also a near by thirty foot drop off. The new friends where found the next morning by the dogs guardian.

Dogs have proven their great value against mother nature as well. In the Philippines a brave four year old Pitt Bull, chief, jumped in between eighty seven year old Liberata la Victoria, as well as her granddaughter when a cobra found its way into their home and threatened to attack. The dog suffered a severe bite to the neck before killing the beast. He spent his last thirty minutes with his family, wagging his tail until he died, knowing his family was safe. In Calvert, MD Debbie Parkhurst found herself alone, and choking on an apple. She could no longer breathe and after attempting the heimlick on herself wasn't sure what the fates had in store for her. That was until Toby the two year golden retriever she had rescued from a dumpster, knocked her to the floor, and by jumping on her chest, dislodged the apple from her throat. The doctors confirmed without Toby Debbie would not be with us today.

Just think, What if these brave souls hadn't been there? Then what? It's just to awful to think about. Look into the eyes of your best friend, give him a hug, and be thankful they are in your life. You never know when you just might need them.

Enjoy more of my articles at Canine Counterparts


How to Spot a Goldfish Disease When Your Fish is Infected

Swim bladder disease is usually caused by poor water quality. Even if he is suffering from swim bladder disease, fasting him and giving him peas will not help. Swim bladder disease can sometimes be cured by either soaking all food before feeding, or giving peas for a while. To give peas, cook them, remove the skins, and smush them a bit. Swim bladder disease is usually caused by poor diet, unclean environment or overfeeding.

Goldfish diseases are rarely contracted by humans, or visa versa. Of course the diagnosis is an important part of the overall goldfish care. If you can't make a disease diagnosis see your local vert, or pet store.

Fish which are infected with external parasites will begin to act differently, and may scratch against rocks, or hover near the bottom of the tank. If you do not clean the water on a regular basis, your fish will be much more suspectible to things such as fin rot. The reason is that your pet is being forced to swim in water that is contaminated by its own feces which is essentially ammonia. Fish become susceptible to fin rot when they are kept in poor water conditions, and it is common on fish kept in unfiltered tanks or bowls.

Your local pet store should be happy to help should you suspect something is wrong. Once a fish is sick, you want to take immediate action to prevent the others from getting sick as well. The best thing you can do is know your fish's typical behavior so you can spot it right away when something is off.

Learn the secrets of setting up and maintaining a healthy aquarium so your fish are happy and healthy in my free fish care newsletter.

Check out my latest article on freshwater tropical fish aquarium.

Chicken First Aid - Bleeding - Blood Feathers

When a chicken moults their old feather falls out and a new one starts to grow to replace it. A new feather growth is known as a blood or pin feather. It starts off a looking a bit like a porcupine quill and can stay like that for 5-7 days before the shaft starts to flake off and the feather starts to open and grow. Once the feather has fully matured (which can take a couple of weeks) the blood inside the shaft recedes and the feather becomes a normal feather which is hollow inside. During the initial growth process though, the shaft of the feather is basically an open blood vessel to provide the needed nutrition directly to the feather so it can grow. The problem with this is that if the feather gets split or broken off completely, that blood vessel is still left open, and because it does cannot compress and close itself like skin would the hole remains it's full size - and that can make it much harder for the opening to clot and the bleeding stop.

WHEN THE FEATHER HAS A VERTICAL SPLIT

If it is a vertical split then often the split can be sealed up so that the feather can continue to grow and hopefully after a week or so you will still end up with a beautiful feather. This scenario is preferential to having to lose the feather completely and then start the whole process of growing from a pin/blood feather again.

What you will need :

A piece of gauze

Surgical glue (even Krazy glue would be ok because it doesn't need to be sterile).

- An extra pair of hands may also be helpful!

Surgical glue and/or Krazy glue does not work well when it's wet, which includes blood, so the first thing you need to do is hold your feather and then use your gauze to wipe away the blood. Then apply your surgical or crazy glue along the split. Use two or three applications for extra security (let the first application dry, and then apply some more glue, let it dry again and then apply the glue again). Each application will probably take about 30 seconds to dry.

Try not to stick all the other feathers and yourself to your chicken!

WHEN THE FEATHER IS BROKEN OFF COMPLETELY

What you will need :

Forceps

- again, an extra pair of hands may also be helpful!

(if you cannot get the bleeding to stop)

A piece of gauze

Surgical glue

Stop watch / clock

Sometimes the feather may have been broken off completely so that you are left with part of the shaft. Because the shaft is holding the vein open it will be hard to stop the bleeding as it is, and so you will need to remove the shaft of the feather completely using your forceps.

With one hand hold the skin firmly where the feather comes out of it to prevent tearing the skin. Then with the other take your forceps and take hold of the feather shaft along it's length so you have as much surface area of it as you can in the forceps, and are as close as you can get to the skin without pinching it. Clamp down and then pull straight out (don't wiggle or angle the forceps). You should now be left with the follicle which is the soft tissue part of the vein - it will still be bleeding but because it is no longer being held open by the shaft it can collapse. You will need pressure to stop the bleeding, so hold the follicle for one minute (this is best timed). Then let go and watch it - often, if you pluck the feather shaft and hold the follicle for a minute the bleeding will have stopped and that is all you have to do. If it is still bleeding hold it again for another minute, and then watch it again. If after five times of holding it for a minute it still has not stopped then you will need to seal the follicle.

To seal the follicle you will need to use surgical glue (because it is inside the follicle it has to be sterile). Hold the follicle shut, wipe away any blood with the gauze, and seal with the surgical glue. As the follicle exfoliates the surgical glue will just fall out and so in a couple of weeks it will be gone.

© Copyright 2008 - Gina Read

Gina is the author / editor of a free monthly keeping chickens ezine full of raising chickens tips, articles and subscriber coops and photos : http://www.keepingchickensnewsletter.com

For more raising chickens tips and articles join my free keeping chickens newsletter at
http://www.keepingchickensnewsletter.com

Keeping Pigs Healthy

The most common problem with keeping pigs is that pigs stress. Hauling, vaccination and introducing pigs to a new environment or a new pig can be a very troublesome time. Pigs are easily stressed and scared which makes them more vulnerable to ill health. The usual signs of a stressed pig are a slower growth rate and a decrease in food consumption.

The most likely time for a pigs health to be at risk is during the first 2 - 3 weeks after pigs are purchased. If multiple pigs are bought from different sources and then mixed together and subject to hauling, injections good practice can prevent them from common diseases such as, transmissible gastroenteritis, swine influenza and porcine reproductive and respiratory syndrome. To prevent diseases always follow excellent management practice, if a pig is being treated it is usually as a result of poor management practice.

During these critical first few weeks check your pigs regularly ensuring they have strong appetites, body temperatures of 102.5 F, smooth shiny coats and tight curly tails. All these are good signs of a healthy pig.

Always make sure that your pigs have daily access to fresh, clean water. Pigs that are deprived of water for too long will develop serious problems including brain damage. For a pig to grow rapidly and healthy they need a high energy diet. A concentrated grain feed that is low in fibre and is supplemented with plenty of protein will help your pigs grow strong and healthy.
A common mistake when feeding pigs is not providing them with the necessary vitamins to keep them healthy. Corn alone is not enough to keep your pigs healthy and growing rapidly, however, supplemented with vitamins it becomes a healthy feed.

Recognize risks on the farm

Even if you have excellent management practices you must understand that there are still diseases that are hard to prevent and that you must recognize. Before and after weaning especially, are times when pigs can become infected with roundworms, whipworms, mange or lice. Pigs can also be exposed to diseases when litters from the same farms are mixed in the nursery. All these sicknesses can be triggered or worsened when a pig is subject to stress.

If you think a pig is sick, take its rectal temperature. If it is 2 degrees or more above normal, call a veterinarian immediately.

Phil Bartholomew writes on behalf of Vet Med Plus

Vet Meds Plus provide a range of animal medication prescription and non prescriptions drugs - whether its animal health or your pets health vet meds Plus has the right treatment for your pets illness or ailments

http://www.vetmedsplus.co.uk

Friday, July 4, 2008

An Insight to Pet Keeping - Pigeons As a Case Study

What are pets? As explained by the oxford dictionary "an animal, a bird etc that you have at home for pleasure, rather than one that is kept for work or food". From the above definition it will right to say: any animal that eats sleeps and breeds inside your home can be referred to as a pet. These animals could be dogs, cats, monkeys, parrots, rodents like hamsters, rabbits, guinea pigs etc; in extreme cases snakes, eagles, raccoons, swallows, crocodiles etc. however, I am here to discuss just one of these pets- PIGEONS

As you all know, pigeons belong to the avian family (birds). They can be referred to as social beings. But one stunning thing about these creatures is their humility and the general slogan for which they are noted for "live and let live" an term that sounds ironical to other community of animals, to me this is the quality that makes them the most unique creatures to ever walk the surface of the earth and fly over the skies, and as they flap their wings in humility and in unison spread peace, prosperity and love all over the length and breath of their habitation.

Now, I got hooked on pigeons a couple of years back, 1996 to be precise, I was still in my early teens at that time, looking back now I find this experience very nostalgic each time I reminisce. Like I said earlier, I got to know about these loveable avian creatures through a friend though many years my senior, however we where brought together as friends as a result of the common thing we shared: being the passion for pigeons. I visited his place regularly just to study the life pattern of these unique birds and each time I look at them, they got more endeared and fascinating they become to me and my longing to have my own community of pigeons increased, until I satisfied this desire by acquiring two sets of pigeons; two males and two females respectively from whom I built a community of pigeons so large, that I became the envy of many.

On the contrary, I am not writing this article to narrate my personal experiences as a former owner of these pets, rather to present to you a comprehensive documentary on how these animals live, eat, breed and interact with themselves as well as their owners, however I will narrate most of my personal experiences with these birds. The community is made up of males and females, each male pigeon have a wife, funny it sounds but it is true, the get married just like we humans do, more so infidelity of either of the partners is intolerable. The widely held belief among them is one man, one wife, but most males stray occasionally and their target, young unattached females, another common feature in human societies, the difference being that divorce is the last thing to be considered in this very complex yet organized society; contrary to this assertion, in all my years of rearing these birds as pets I recorded a typical case of divorce. Please read on: a certain pigeon female to be precise was being ostracized for mistakenly falling into hot oil my mum left outside her kitchen, fortunately for the unfortunate pigeon, my senior sister saved it before it was fully consumed by the hot oil. But with this development this pigeon became a recluse of some sort as it was avoided and treated with disdain by other pigeons in the community. Now a certain male pigeon finding this situation rather appalling decided to do the unthinkable by interacting with the dejected pigeon a relationship that ended in both pigeons hooking up. Sadly, the female eloped with another male it thought to be finer which led to my banishing this heartless pigeon a decision my family supported, as every body in my house from my father to my mum loved and adored these birds. So I banished the said pigeon for leaving not only the husband but also the kids it bore to be catered for by the male alone, a responsibility this male pigeon carried out effectively to the latter.

Now, pigeons are a very interesting lot to study, their complexity of character and simplicity is one quality hard to find in any other society of animals from avian to reptiles, from amphibians to Aquarian creatures and even mammals and apes, a community that after a male and a female pigeon hooks up, they start making plans for having a family. They commence mating like every other animal in their cadre, but one unique thing about how they mate is prolonged foreplay, incredible?! Well pigeons are similar to humans in many aspects and this is one of them. They kiss with the male putting its head in between its wings occasionally, after this prolonged foreplay the female bends down for the normal copulation which takes place with the two birds joining their organs found at the base of their tails.

Gradually, the female's eggs are developed and ready to be laid, that is when the male starts getting the pen ready for the female to roost. The male starts picking up sticks, straw, feathers to make the place cozy for its wife. During this period it chaperons the wife from place to place and pecks it roughly at times on the neck signaling other males of the danger posed if they ever disturb the wife who is ready for roosting. The eggs after being laid, two maximum, and the two pigeons now take turns to sit on the eggs. Funny enough, they make a roaster for sitting on the eggs. The female sits on the eggs from night till morning, at about 12pm of the next day or so, it leaves for the male to take over from that time to maybe 6pm after which the female comes back and takes charge till the morning of the next day; while the male keeps watch at the entrance of the pen to ward off other impending males that might disturb the female while she sits on the eggs: as rearing a family is a collective responsibility between the male and female pigeons respectively.

Roosting might take an average of seventeen days depending on the prevailing conditions, immediately the eggs hatches into young pigeons; another roaster is drawn between the two parents. This time for feeding their young, with the male playing a dominant role, a role he plays till the female is ready to lay another set of eggs. Now while the female gets prepared for laying another set of eggs, the males continues to feed their young till they get ready for their first flight. Their feeding technique, another delight to watch, the parents after taking in sufficient food and water, the two substances dissolve and serves as food to the young who get their nutrition by putting their tender beaks into the beaks of their parents who in turn send the food by vomiting it out into the bodies of these young ones.

Amazingly in all my life I have never seen any animal be it mammal, reptile, or even birds that their young ones develop as rapid as young pigeons. I have seen young chickens, goats, cows etc tended by their mothers develop, but for pigeons, as soon as they are brought into the world, within a short period of time say two weeks it is ready to join other matured birds in the community for its first flight

Generally, pigeons live a life of equity. Every pigeon regardless of age or color is respected by the other. They do every thing in common: from eating, taking their bath, flying and sleeping. Note here that the issue of borders and territory are respected. Every male points and marks out areas and spaces for domination. The other pigeons respect these boundaries and borders. In all my life I have never seen any community be it human, plant or animal as organized as this community. If we humans can take a clue from these creatures, the world will be a better place to live in; devoid of crime, corruption and domination. As witnessed by the way in which big and strong nations bully the weak ones with many human societies going into extinction, but if we mimic these wonderful birds, the world would be a wonderful sphere where every race, tribe and region will live in equity, justice, peace and prosperity. The world of pigeons!

Chinemere Onuekwusi is a young Nigerian with a drive to set new heights and sights for his generation; you can read more about him at his blog http://www.chinemeremz.blogspot.com

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Ten Things You Should Know About Pet Lizards

If you are about to obtain your first pet lizard, congratulations. Lizards are, in my view, the most wonderful, fascinating and beautiful creatures on Earth. Part of their appeal is their incredible diversity; there are more species of lizards than all the mammals or amphibians, and they range from three-inch legless burrowers to the mighty 200-pound Komodo dragon. Some are coloured with somber tans and ochre, and others rival the most ostentatious of butterflies with gaudy green, red, and yellow markings. Some glide on fragile wings, some run across the water, and some can stick to ceilings. With my sincere apology to Samuel Johnson, it is my opinion that "when a man gets tired of lizards, he is tired of life"!

That said, here are ten valuable guidelines to help you and your lizard get off to a good start, and stay on a safe and happy course. I speak with a wee bit of experience, having kept lizards since 1961, and going on to spending over 30 years as a professional herpetologist. These tips are just a starting point, but they cover ten really important points!

1) Start by getting a lizard that is easy to care for! Many lizards are very demanding in captivity, and those should be left to experienced keepers. Among the best starter lizards are the Australian bearded dragon and blue-tongue skinks, which grow to a total length near 13-inches. They do not become stressed when properly handled, are generally tame, and eat a wide variety of foods, from fruits, vegetables and flowers to insects, moist dog food and small mice. Savanna monitors are also good for beginners, but get a young specimen and raise it to adult size; freshly imported adults may be aggressive, but captive bred/raised specimens are excellent animals for beginner keepers.

2) Avoid getting a species that people think of as "pets" but are really very challenging to keep properly. Among those species to avoid: iguanas, Nile monitors, chameleons, and small species that grow to only 3 - 8 inches in length.

3) Read up about your lizard, because there is no excuse for doing a poor job as its keeper. For books, you can consult Bibliomania! at www.herplit.com, one of the largest reptile book dealers in existence. Then subscribe to one of the magazines published for reptile keepers, which include REPTILES (www.reptilechannel.com/rmrc_portal.aspx), REPTILIA (www.reptilia.net/html_english/inter-print2.html), REPTILES AUSTRALIA (www.reptilesaustralia.com.au/), and Britain publishes REPTILE CARE (www.reptilecareuk.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=10&Itemid=11).

4) Remember that lizards and snakes are very closely related groups of animals, but lizards need very different care. Unlike snakes that may need food only once a week or month, lizards usually need to eat every day, and sometimes more than once per day. But do not leave rotting or dirty food in the terrarium, because it could be contaminated with germs and cause your lizard to become sick.

5) Do not grab or hold a lizard by the tail. Even though the tail of a bearded dragon, blue-tongue skink, or savanna monitor will not break off, it is uncomfortable for the lizard. Get used to holding the lizard by putting your hand under its belly and supporting its weight from below.

6) Never use your lizard to frighten anyone! Strange as it may sound, some people are afraid of reptiles, and that kind of fear has led to many laws and regulations being passed that make owning reptiles in some places difficult. It is much better for the lizards - and the rest of us keepers - if you use your lizard to help teach other people how wonderful they really are!

7) Never release an unwanted pet reptile into the wild. Most pets are from other continents and will not live long where you live. It is also possible, especially in a place like Florida, that the released pet will do well and, if many such pets have been released, found a colony of foreign animals. This is not good for the local wildlife and really upsets conservationists and Fish and Wildlife officials.

8) All diurnal (active during the daytime) lizards need some ultraviolet light in their lives. But UV light does not penetrate glass, so it doesn't help to put a terrarium near a window. In addition to a heat light (all lizards need a temperature of at least 78 degrees F, many much more), you will need a good full-spectrum UV light. These are now produced to fit in either a screw-in socket or a standard fluorescent tube socket. For examples of excellent products check the Zoo Med website at www.zoomed.com.

9) Always be sure your lizard has access to fresh, clean water! Some lizards only drink dew drops from leaves, but these species are not among the beginner's species. Even desert lizards - and that includes all of the beginner species I've listed - can and will drink from a dish, and even enjoy soaking if the dish is large enough. Soaking also makes skin shedding easier for your lizards.

10) Do not crowd your lizard. If you are getting two lizards to start with, make them both the same species, preferably one of each sex, about the same size, and house them in a terrarium that is large enough. Overcrowded lizards become stressed and may refuse to eat. They are also more likely to catch an illness. If you cannot offer enough space, do not get the lizard. Period.

BONUS TIP 1) A fourth excellent starter lizard is the leopard gecko, a delicate and very popular nocturnal species that has been bred into many colour morphs (it's something like the lizard keeper's equivalent of the guppy!). Unlike the other starter species I mentioned, leopard geckos are smaller (to about 6 inches), have soft, delicate skin, and have tails that are easily broken. Yes, they grow back, but only as stiff rods that never look as good as the original. They also require more gentle handling than the larger starter species. They do not need UV light, but they still need a warm terrarium (70 - 78 degrees at night, 78 -95 degrees by day), sandy soil, and places they can hide. Feed them live insects, especially crickets, young roaches, and wax worms.

BONUS TIP 2) Do not use heat rocks to keep diurnal lizards warm! The lizards are, frankly, not "wired" to know that their bellies are actually cooking, and they may stay on the rock until badly injured or dead! Leopard geckos, however, will be fine with a heat rock or two.

Other things that you should know include washing your hands well after handling your lizards, do not tease or annoy the animals, and be sure to keep the terrarium clean.

The second edition of Dr Sprackland's classic book, "Giant Lizards," is scheduled to be released in October 2008. It not only covers the world's largest lizards, but includes chapters about lizard care and biology that are useful to all reptile keepers. Look for "Giant Lizards, 2nd Edition" published by TFH, Inc., at your favourite pet shop or book seller's.

The author is a professional biologist who teaches human anatomy and physiology. His blogs present a view of human nature as might be observed by a visitor from another world...

The second edition of Dr Sprackland's classic book, "Giant Lizards," is scheduled to be released in October 2008. It not only covers the world's largest lizards, but includes chapters about lizard care and biology that are useful to all reptile keepers. Look for "Giant Lizards, 2nd Edition" published by TFH, Inc., at your favourite pet shop or book seller's.

Frogs and Salamanders are Amphibians

Not many people know that the common garden frogs and toads come under special category called amphibians. They are called amphibians because they can live both on ground and inside water. They have a special set of lungs that assist respiration irrespective of the location of the animal. The term amphibian is so commonly used these days that any thing that relates to dual life inside water and on ground is referred to as amphibious. They are also called amphibians because there is involvement of water at one particular level in the life cycle of the animal. Let us examine these amphibians one by one.

The amphibians include the general garden frog, salamander, giant salamander, newt, Caecilians, South African Ghost frog, Dancing frog, Bull Frog, Dart Frog, Tree Frog and Gardenia Seychelles. All these animals lead a dual life. They spend more or less equal amount of their life cycle on water and land. For instance, it has been found that amphibians find it extremely difficult to survive in the absence of water. Even, the common garden frog is found in places where there is a lot of moisture. You can even find the garden frogs inside the water tank or fountain in the park or house garden. The frogs are fond of water for several reasons. Whenever they mate, the breeding takes place inside water. The frogs need water as the medium to lay their eggs. The initial phase of the newly born tad poles also known as younglings of frogs need water to sustain a living. These tadpoles contain a special set of gills using which they breathe while in water. Interestingly if the tadpoles are taken out of the water, they will not survive for long. Such is the bonding between the frog's life cycle and water.

After spending a larger part of their life inside water, the tadpoles transform into frogs. During this transformational period, these tad poles rely extensively on water for their food. They feed on a lot of microbial animals called planktons. It is said that a garden water tank is always clean in the presence of frogs. In the absence of water, frogs find it extremely difficult to breed. Some tree frogs, which live inside the jungles with little or no flowing water, have found an innovative way to breed. These frogs rely on the flower dew and tree sap for breeding. For instance, the frogs lay the eggs inside the dew collected flower in which the tadpoles become active once the egg hatches. The tad poles have very little space to move around. However, they continue to survive in such as small space. Unlike garden frogs, which lay eggs in thousands, the tree frogs lay only a few eggs. Since the absence of the ecosystem for breeding is poor when compared to that of the garden frog, the number of eggs laid is less.

Newts are some times tadpoles that fail to grow into the full size of a frog. Such conditions are very normal in the amphibian world. The limbless amphibians are also found in the fresh water.

Tips For Choosing A Turtle As A Pet

When choosing a turtle as a pet for the first time, new pet owners may be hesitant as they are unsure as to how they should get started. The good news is that choosing a turtle to add to your household is much easier than it may seem. The following will provide some tips on how to choose this friendly animal for your new pet.

Read Up on Turtles First

Before heading out to the store you should read up on turtles either online or in books from your local library or bookstore. By having the requisite knowledge about these creatures you will be better prepared to become a turtle owner. Not only will you learn what items you need to purchase alongside the turtle in order to get started but you will also gain knowledge regarding how to care for your new pet and keep it happy.

Decide What Type of Turtle You Want

It is also a good idea to determine what type of turtle you want to buy. When choosing a turtle as a pet you will be met with a variety of options with regard to turtle species. When reading about turtles, try to figure out which type of turtle is most suitable for your specific living situation. In addition, if you have children in the home, keep in mind that some turtles will be better suited for homes with kids than others will be. Deciding what type of turtle you want right in the beginning will help you to narrow down the turtle options and choose one which is best for you.

Know That Owning a Turtle Is a Commitment

As with any pet, those who buy turtles are making the commitment to care for them properly and keep them content and safe. Know that you will have to feed the turtle, clean the living space and teach the children to treat the turtle gently. Although a turtle may not take as much effort as a cat or a dog will, it is still a pet which needs to be cared for properly and fully.

Try to Find Package Deals on Turtles and Turtle Equipment

You may also find that pet stores offer package deals on animals and accompanying equipment from time to time. The same may be true in the case of a turtle. Try to find a pet store which offers complete packages which may include the turtle, living quarters for your new little friend, food and any other accessories which turtles need to live happily. Choosing a turtle as a pet in the way of a package deal not only will ensure that you have all that you need for your new pet but you may even get a great deal on all of the items as well.

Craig Thornburrow is an acknowledged expert in his field. You can get more free advice on keeping turtles and Turtle Equipment at http://www.keepingturtles.com

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Provide Comfort At Low Cost With Cheap Dog Beds

As soon as we think of keeping a pet dog at our place, we almost simultaneously about all the duties that we are required to perform. One of the most important provisions that we are required to make for our dog is a proper sleeping place. It is easy to provide one now due to the availability of cheap dog beds.

Depending upon the breed of the dog that you have, you can easily choose the bed which suits your pet. It is very important to see the suitability of the bed according to the size of your pet. Any small discomfort can lead the dog being restless in his bed and wanting to leap on you right in the middle of the night. This however cannot be allowed for them, so it is important to get the perfect size for your pet.

There are various varieties available when it comes to choosing a nocturnal retreat for your pet. Large ones are available if your canine is one of those larger breeds. For the smaller dogs, it is important to fix them a bed where they do not feel uncomfortable as too large a bed can lead them to keep moving to warm it the whole night.

A unique one to provide your pet comfort can be the "in" thing for the owner of the pet, so in such cases, unique beds are also available. Designer and luxury ones are also available if the owner wants to splurge and have a customized resting place for their pet.

If your dog is suffering from arthritis and you need a place to rest for him which is made for his problem, orthopedic beds are also available to provide utmost comfort to your pet. Wooden and fleece beds are also available to cater to the specific liking of your canine.

There are various options available for buying beds for dogs in the market. But it is always better when you can compare all the options that are available. Through online researching, you can come across many dealers for these dog beds. Due to competition, you can find out cheap dog beds and buy one according to your choice and suitability for the pet.

Get the best for your pet and give him complete convenience when its time for sleep. After all, only a happy pet will provide you happiness and protection as well.

Mark Joness is the content author of the Dogs Center. After studies at the University of Alabama, he has been involved in teaching english and creative writing. Mr. Jones writes informative topics related to dogs and their breeds. To find smaller dogs, dog beds, cheap dog beds must visit http://www.dogscenter.net

How To Effectively Control Fleas

Fleas, those pesky blood sucking pests that make pets' lives miserable and humans itch from just a thought, can be impossible to control unless you understand their life cycle and the vulnerability of each life stage. Most pet owners do not understand the flea as evidenced by their most commonly asked questions:

"How can I get rid of fleas once and for all?"

"Do I use pills, dips, shampoos, powders, topical drops, or a combination?"

"How can I get the fleas out of my house?"

"I've got fleas in my car, how can I get rid of them?"

"Why do I have to treat my carpets, the fleas are on the dog, right?"

"Why is my yard infested with fleas? I do not even own a pet?"

The answer: there is no single method or insecticide that will completely eradicate or control the flea. Did you get that? No single method will effectively control fleas because of their complex and multi-faceted life cycle. Preparations that are effective during one stage of the cycle are ineffective during other stages. Therefore, to successfully control fleas, understanding the various life stages becomes paramount.

Collectively, all of the species of fleas are categorized under the order name of Siphonaptera. The cat flea, Ctenocephalides felix, is the most commonly found flea in the US and infests cats, dogs, humans, and other mammalian and avian hosts. Did you get that? Fleas can be found on other mammals and birds.This explains how non-pet owning homes and yards can become flea infested.

Fleas thrive in warm, moist environments and climates, and Southeast Texas, especially the Gulf Coast area, is better suited for flea development than most other areas of the USA. The main food source for the flea is blood from a host animal. 95% of the time, fleas utilize mammalian hosts. But, fleas can also infest avian species (about 5%).

Why does the flea bite itch? Flea saliva, like other biting skin parasites, contains an ingredient that softens, or "digests" the host's skin for easier penetration and feeding. The saliva of fleas is irritating and allergenic -- the cause of all the itching, scratching, and other signs seen with Flea Allergy Dermatitis, or FAD.

Fleas have four main stages in their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The total flea life cycle can range from a couple weeks to several months, depending on environmental conditions. The total flea population is made up of approximately 50% eggs, 30% larvae, 15% pupae, and only 5% biting adults. This means that the majority of the fleas life is spent off the animal making the environment the most logical treatment target rather then the host animal.

ADULT: The adult flea is very flat side to side. There are hair-like bristles on the flea body and legs to aid in their navigation through pet hair. Fleas have 3 pairs of legs, the hindmost pair designed for jumping. The flea is most famous for its jumping abilities.

The adult flea prefers to live on the animal and its diet consists of blood meals courtesy of the host animal. The female flea is very proliferative and lays white, roundish eggs. She can lay up to 50 eggs per day, 1,500-1,600 eggs over several months.

Fleas cannot reproduce without a blood meal, but they can survive for up to a year without feeding provided they do not emerge from the cocoon.

EGG: The eggs are not sticky (like some parasites), and they usually fall off of the animal into the carpet, the pet's bedding, floorboards, or on the ground. Remember, a dog carrying just 10 producing adult females can spread 15,000 to 16,000 eggs in your house over the course of a few short weeks.

The point in time when the flea egg hatches will vary -- anywhere from two days to a few weeks, depending on environmental conditions. The larva emerges from the egg using a chitin tooth, a hard spine on the top of the head that disappears as the flea matures.

The flea egg is relatively non-susceptible to routine flea treatment programs.

LARVA (plural = larvae): The larval stage is actually made up of three developmental stages. Larvae are about 1/4" (6.35 mm) long, and semi-transparent white. They are often mistaken for fly maggots. They have small hairs along their body and actively move. In order to survive, the larvae eat flea dirt, or the feces of adult fleas (which is mostly dried blood) and other organic debris found in the carpet, bedding, soil, and even on your pet.

Depending on the amount of food present and the environmental conditions, the larval stage lasts about 5 to 18 days (longer in some cases) then the larva spins a silken cocoon and pupates.

PUPA (plural = pupae): The pupa is the last stage before the flea becomes an adult. The adult flea can emerge from the cocoon as early as 3 to 5 days, or it can stay in the cocoon for a year or more, waiting for the right time to emerge. Stimuli such as warm ambient temperatures, high humidity, even the vibrations and carbon dioxide emitted from a passing potential host will cause the flea to emerge from the cocoon faster. And, once he emerges from the cocoon, he has only one thing on his mind - a blood meal.

This brings us back to the starting point, the adult flea.

The entire life cycle is quite variable, as evidenced by the variability in each life stage progression. As mentioned above, the cycle can be as short as two weeks or as long as two years. That is why it is so important to remain vigilant. Even when a flea problem is thought to be under control, it probably is not!

The Flea Control Program

Recognizing that during its life cycle, the flea is only on the dog or cat 5% of the time and off 95%, it only makes sense to focus a control program following the same percentages. Invest 5% of your time and money in controlling fleas on your pet and 95% on ridding your environment of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Here's what we suggest:

Irregardless of whether you do or don't have a flea problem, apply once a month spot on type treatments for each of your pets. This should be continued year round - each of the 12 months if you seriously want to eliminate your flea problem or prevent one from occurring.

If you already have a flea problem:

a. Treat the inside of your house with a flea fogger that contains a growth regulator (IGR) and then complete follow up applications 7 and 14 days later for a total of 3 treatments. Severe infestations may require more treatments.

b. Vacuum your floors daily for 21 days.

c. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once weekly for 3 weeks. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum.

d. Wash your pet's bedding using a good detergent. Continue this step every other week, more often if necessary.

e. Treat you lawn with an agricultural limestone product. If possible, add some diatomaceous earth to the mix. Water in thoroughly.

f. If using broad spectrum spray type insecticides, treat your yard daily for 5 days and then follow up with a single application 7 and 14 days later. If you use a granular type, apply once weekly for 4 weeks. Pay particular attention to outside pet sleeping areas.

If you are pro-actively attempting to prevent flea problems:

a. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once monthly. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum.

b. Treat your lawn with agricultural limestone and diatomaceous earth in the spring and again in the fall.

c. Apply a granular type broad spectrum insecticide once monthly from March through and including October.

Please take note - we have not suggested dips, shampoos, or powders. Although these methods are quite effective at killing adult fleas, they do nothing to eliminate the egg, larvae, or pupae infestation. Topical sprays containing growth regulators are more effective, but again they only target 5% of the flea's life cycle. These preparations each have their place in the overall scheme of flea control and it might be best to consult your local Veterinarian, Pest Control Serviceman, or your Feed Store's Pet Consultant for further suggestions.

Bill Bergfeld is a professional Network Marketer and owner of multiple businesses. As a Farm and Ranch Store Pet Consultant, he maintains a website dedicated to flea control and infestation prevention. You can find more information at http://www.profleacontrol.com

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Breeding for Beginners

Probably the most rewarding thing about tropical fish keeping is watching young fish grow from birth to adult size. You can take immense pride in achieving this, but is particularly true for the more difficult species to breed. However beginners should be wary of jumping in at the deep end (so to speak).

Mollies Guppies, Swordtails and Platys are fantastic fish for beginners to breed. They are all live bearer fish types, ie the fish are born live and can swim from the outset. These fish come in an enormous variety of colours and patterns and are great for beginner breeders to hone their newly acquired skills

Probably THE most important tip on breeding tropical fish that bear live young is to keep the baby fish, called fry, away from the rest of your community tank. Adult fish consider fry to be fantastic food, so "keep them apart right from the start". If you don't your breeding efforts will be in vain. In fact, even the mother and father will eat their own young as food.

Your best bet to avoid this fate is to use a separate breeding tank with lots of plants and foliage for the fry to hide in. Once the mother has given birth, she must be returned to the main tank quickly, in order that young fry can grow safely inside the incubator tank.

Water temperature and tank size are both very important when it comes to conditioning tropical fish. Each different breed of fish has a different best breeding temperature, so first determine that. Fish are conditioned to breed when the water temperature signals to them that it is breeding season. If you maintain this optimal temperature, the fish will be more likely to breed. As a general rule, larger tanks tend to produce larger numbers of fry in one birth as well.

Food is also an important factor in the conditioning, try to find out which is the favorite food is your particular type of fish. However as it isn't always possible to obtain 'specialist food', nowadays a well balanced diet can be provided easily in the form of high quality flaked or similar prepared food. Bloodworms, frozen or live are excellent for conditioning most fish.

The joy that you get from breeding fish will be all the more if you follow these basic rules.

Pete owns Tropical Fish Advice which is a resource dedicated to helping individuals interested in all types of Tropical Fish

Aquarium Water Changing Tips And Guide

Water changing will vary depending on the type of aquarium you are keeping - tropical, cold water or marine - and whether you use tap water or purified water. Water changes are an essential part of fish keeping and, if done properly, cannot be overdone. Remember that in nature the biggest form of filtration is dilution, as waste products are dissipated by the vastness of the body of water, and even the best filters will not remove nitrates and replace essential minerals in your fish tank.

Frequency

It is advisable to replace about 25 per cent of the aquarium water weekly, as this should help to keep nitrates low. If you are using tap water for the changes, test it to make sure that the pH and hardness are to the liking of your fish. Check also that the nitrate level in the tap water is sufficiently low. If the nitrate is reading at 40 parts per million (ppm) or over, it could actually be contributing to a rising nitrate level in the main tank, and if this is the case you should consider finding alternative water sources or purifiers. If you are in any doubt about the suitability of your local tap water, consult your local authority.

Tips : The most effective way to keep a tank clean is to combine water changing with filter maintenance, algae wiping and gravel vacuuming.

Equipment

Set aside some clean buckets and siphon tubes especially for water changes and do not use them for any other purpose, such as washing the car. If you are using large containers to store water, check that they are made from suitable food-grade plastic, because some plastics may cause your fish to die if the chemicals leach into the water. Keep stored water in dark to stop algal blooms forming and run an air stone into it to keep it fresh. If using reverse osmosis water, an air stone placed within it can help to keep the pH stable. If left for too long without aeration, it may become very acidic

Tip: One natural source of tank water is rainwater. It is naturally soft and devoid of minerals, but should be filtered through carbon to remove any traces of pollutants. If you are collecting run-off rainwater from a roof, check that the roof is made from a suitable clean, inert material.

Tank water Dos and Don'ts

Take note of the following points to help you avoid problems in your water-changing routine. Incorrect water changes may do more harm than good.

Do

* If you are using purified water with all the chlorine and minerals removed, first add a mineral additive to replace essential electrolytes, then bring the water up to the appropriate temperature using a heater/thermostat and thermometer

* If you are using tap water bring the water up to the appropriate temperature by using water from a hot kettle or by using a spare heater. Use a thermometer to check the temperature is the same as that in the main aquarium.

* If you are preparing water for a reef aquarium, use only hot water that is free of copper. For this reason, water from the hot tap if generally regarded as unsafe.

* Always dechlorinate water before adding it to the main aquarium. Untreated water can kill beneficial bacteria on all surfaces, such as gravel and decorations, as well as in the filter.

Don't

* Add water that is too cold. It may cause stress and give your fish an outbreak of white spot.

* Add water that is too warm. It will affect oxygen levels in the tank and may kill filter bacteria.

Interested in reading more about fish keeping?

Visit http://www.fishkeepingtalk.com

For those that are interested in my article and intend to post it in your site or blog, please refer it back to my website at http://www.fishkeepingtalk.com

Dog Agility Training for Fun

Dog agility is a sport in which handler directs a dog off-leash through obstacle course in a race for time and accuracy. Obstacle course consist of various tunnels, jumps, a tire jump, weave poles, a pause table where the dog must sit or lie down for a count of five seconds, and obstacles that the dog must climb. The first dog agility performance was as entertainment at the Crufts dog show in 1978 and became a success that is now gaining popularity worldwide. It demonstrates dog's ability to be versatile, quick and agile. All types and breeds of dogs can join in this sport. Even children and puppies are encouraged to participate in this event. If you do not want to compete and want to join the agility just for fun, you can do so in non-competitive agility classes.

In an agility training course, training obedience is the basic key. Dogs are trained to be obedient to their owner or the handler. The dogs must know and obey the different commands such as sit, halt or stop, lay down and other commands that can be used during the agility course. Dog agility equipment is necessary during the training. In purchasing dog agility equipment, there are things that you have to consider. First, you have to consider the dog. Use appropriate equipment for your dog's size, breed, and age. Second, adjustable equipment is recommended to be used on your dog, this way; you can adjust it to the level of training. Go for portability of the equipment. If do not want to spend most of your time assembling the course, choose dog agility equipment that can be put together easily or already assembled.

Consult a veterinarian before starting the agility training to ensure that your dog is in good physical health and have the necessary vaccines to participate in the training. Making sure that your dog has the strength and endurance to overcome one obstacle after another. Dog agility training helps develop the bonding between the pet owner or handler and the dog. Talk to your dog and offer treats for an accomplished command or task.

Dog Training Methods

Dogs and puppies start out very cute and in their owner's mind, they can do no wrong. But soon the honeymoon stage is over and a particular behavior of man's best friend makes them not so cute anymore. Problems with canines can range from separation anxiety, fence jumping, digging and excessive barking. Most of the problems start with a trigger that sparks the bad behavior. With patience and commitment, proper dog training techniques can relieve a tense atmosphere where dogs and humans can live together in harmony.

The following are specific behavior problems and quick suggestions on how to correct the dog's bad manners.

Chewing Problems

Dog training for chewing can start by giving your dog dozens of tasty dog chews and toys specifically made for him. The more toys, the less chance he will find shoes or furniture to chew on. Be clear to your dog that just those specific toys are to be used for chewing. Exercise your dog as much as possible because a bored dog is a mischievous dog. The most important tip to stop chewing is to constantly stop the behavior before it becomes a habit.

Separation Anxiety

You are your dog's total world. When the time that you spend with your dog is interrupted by leaving to run errands or go to work, they do not understand the separation and may act out in an undesirable way. Relieve their distress by leaving a piece of clothing in their bed that has your sent on it. Also, give your dog plenty of exercise so that he will have a good rest while you are gone. Leave the radio on while you are away. Your dog may feel more comfortable with background sound playing while he sleeps. This type of dog training is a loving way to train and not using punishing methods for corrections.

Jumping on People

This behavior can be dangerous as well as annoying, but your dog is just showing you that he is happy to see you or seeking attention. Both can be harmful especially to children and the elderly. Start changing this behavior by turning away from them when they jump and do not give eye contact. This is the quickest way to deflect the problem. They will soon learn that jumping on people does not give him the positive reaction he is looking for. While dog training, have treats at your door and on your person to give your dog something else to do when he is tempted to jump.

No breed is exempt from habitual bad behaviors. Plenty of patience, love and commitment can turn your dog into a calm, loving member of the family.

This article can be freely published on a website as long as it's not modified in any way including the author bylines, plus the hyperlink must be made active just like below.

Visit his website http://www.softwarereviewshop.com

Monday, April 14, 2008

Pet Poisoning Symptoms - Your Rhubarb Plants Can Be Harmful

It is a well known fact to many, that a substance called oxalate is quite prevalent in the leaves of the rhubarb plant. It is quickly absorbed into the bloodstream if ingested and can cause severe problems.

Rhubarb lovers and gardeners alike know that only the stems are eaten, and the leaves are cut off at harvest time. Some of us faithfully wear gloves at all times. Some do not. Some people compost the leaves. Others make a quick trip to the garbage dump. There is some debate on the severity of the dangers.

Yet, with all we know, and all we have read, how many of us put our pets outside on a daily basis?

We consistently send our pets outdoors to wander the property to enjoy the sun, get some fresh air and exercise or simply to do their business. We don't give this daily routine any second thought.

I bet that a huge chunk of the population never really considers the danger a simple garden plant can pose to a curious animal. It isn't due to a lack of caring or concern for our beloved pets. I think it is simply a case of wishful thinking and crossed fingers that our pet will return in the same state as when he left.

Animals are so instinctively curious and notorious for getting into things they should avoid.

Humans know better, or at least we should. Animals do not, and so we should be aware that the symptoms displayed by rhubarb poisoning in pets are very similar to those displayed in humans.

A pet in trouble will typically display the signs in the form of excessive drooling or vomiting or both. They will obviously be not too steady on their feet and appear to be staggering. Your pet may show signs of obvious abdominal pain when touched. Eventually he may even go into convulsions. Would you know how to handle this, seeing that your pet is in distress?

The most obvious thing to do I believe, would be to immediately call your veterinarian for his opinion.

You are sure to be advised to get your pet medical attention. Instructions have been published on how to give an animal ipecac to induce vomiting. I don't believe this is the best thing to do, simply because we are not qualified to determine if that is the solution. I would not use the hydrogen-peroxide and water mixture either for the same reason. Vomiting can even enhance the problem on the way back up as well.

I also don't believe this is a good idea, as it means physically forcing your pet to do this while they are distressed. I speak from experience that the worst thing you can do, is put your hands around the face of a pet who is severely agitated. If you think there is poison in a rhubarb leaf, consider the bacteria contained in the front long fangs of a cat. While trying to comfort a distressed pet, I was immediately bitten on the knuckle. My hand became horribly red and inflamed overnight. It swelled to an incredible size much to the worry of my doctor. That is a dangerous situation, and took two weeks to begin to heal.

Get some assistance, wear heavy gloves and muzzle your pet if you can. Transport them in a carrier to your vet and keep them warm with a familiar blanket. Take vomit samples with you. Have a sample of the leaf if possible.

If you are not sure to begin with how serious the situation is, call your local SPCA, or Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435. Be as ready for them with information as you would with your own child.

We need to discipline ourselves as responsible pet lovers to improve our efforts to keep them safe in their own surroundings. We should be faithfully accompanying them when we put them outside to roam freely. We should be there to guide them away from any garden dangers. We need to put barriers around the dangerous parts of our gardens. Better yet, we should have specific places for them to roam where they are restricted to that one safe area only.


Pet Nutrition and Health - Consider Grooming!

Groomers do more than just trim hair and toenails. The observant groomer can detect changes in skin condition, hair/coat condition, he/she will notice changes in temperament and reactions to stimulus. The groomer naturally is exposed to many different conditions of many animals and with the gained knowledge has an ability to consider and compare conditions.

Starting with hair condition, numerous circumstances can create a lack of luster and sheen that doesn't appear normal. This can be caused by nutrition, fleas and lice, allergies, parasites, hair cleaning products (shampoo) or even environmental problems. An experienced groomer can often detect the cause of a dry or blotchy skin, based on previous grooming examinations. The groomer may ask if the pet's diet has been changed or inquire about other possible factors such as age and take these into consideration before recommending possible solutions. Importantly an experienced groomer also knows when a veterinarian's advice is needed.

Responsible groomers have a close relationship to local veterinarians which they can call upon for advice and help when needed. They also keep records of all pet visits to compare ongoing variations of a pet's condition and for grooming requirements.

Another important health issue observed by groomers is ears. Dogs have deep canals subject to ticks, parasites and other issues such as wax buildup, dirt and so forth that can cause infections. Cats ears have smaller canals, but are subject to many of the same problems. Ear cleaning compounds are available commercially for pet parents to care for their pet's ears.

Proper toe nail trimming is necessary and most groomers have had extensive experience with it. Problems can arise from too close trimming (drawing blood), This normally will heal naturally, but infections can evolve so watch closely.

Observing eyes for clarity and excess tearing is important to determine if there are problems or conditions that need attention. Pets can develop cataracts and retinal problems similar to humans.

There are just a few of the observations to which concerned groomers pay attention. Their expertise and abilities combined with experience can prevent many problems and create a happy and healthy environment for you and especially your pets.

Be sure to interview and/or get recommendations before choosing a groomer. Anyone can start a grooming business, but few possess the determination, experience and concern that is required to be a first rate groomer/care giver.

Your pet's health is as important as your health is to you.

Richard Monson is an entrepreneurial spirit with many interests. Pets are continuous companions in his life. Having lived on a farm he has concern for animals and out of necessity has studied animal nutrition and health. His interests in chemistry, physics and biology have provided him with the curiosity to look for answers beyond the usual methods. His pet website is at: http://www.NotablePets.smmsite.com/13397

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Avoid Disease in Your Aquarium

The most important objective in keeping tropical fish is to replicate the natural environment that the fish originally came from. There is a natural balance that fish like between water, plants, aeration and quality of water. If the tank is in balance - in general you will not get disease.

Out of Balance

However there are many simple reasons why your tank may move out of balance, causing stress to the fish and encouraging disease in the tank:

* The introduction of a new fish

* Too many fish

* Too little air circulation

* Too small a surface area

* Introduction of new plants

* Poor maintenance regime giving poor water quality.

Most aquarium disease can be avoided by making sure your aquarium water is healthy. Neglecting the appropriate tank maintenance and partial water changes will allow toxins to build up in the water, basically polluting your fish's environment. As the water becomes more toxic your fish become more "stressed", the more stressed your fish becomes the easier it is for the micro organisms present in your aquarium water to infect your fish with various diseases.

However, there are many diseases that can affect your aquarium fish and once your tank is infected, there's a good change that all your fish will get sick. If disease does break out, doing a partial water change and treating the water for the particular disease is the best way to nip it in the bud. If you don't do these two things your tank is liable to fail.

Stressed Fish

In addition to keeping good water quality in your aquarium, you should also keep an eye on your fish each day so that you can be alerted to any signs of stress right away and take the appropriate action.

Stressed tropical fish give out some tell tale signs you can be on the look out for including:

· Rubbing themselves against the gravel or aquarium décor

· Hiding in the corner or under plants or rocks all the time

· Floating at an angle with their fins close to they body

· Any growths or white fuzzy spots.

Of course, the first step in treating aquarium disease is preventing it...

Keep your aquarium in balance and it will help you enjoy beautiful healthy fish for years to come...

Pete owns Tropical Fish Advice which is a resource dedicated to helping individuals interested in all types of Tropical Fish

How To Prevent And Treat Popeye In Your Betta Fish

If you have ever woke up to your siamese fighting fish staring back out at you all bug-eyed, you are not alone. Congratulations. Your Betta fish has something known as exophthalmia aka Popeye. And the new bug-eyes that your betta is sporting is the symptom of two potential problems:

  • mycobacterial infection (which is easily treatable)
  • tuberculosis (not so treatable)
  • parasitic infection
  • Ichthyophonus or Ick (another bacterial infection and highly treatable)
  • eye flukes
  • internal metabolic disorders

Either way, the reason why your betta's eyes are protruding is because there is likely an abscess behind the eye.

How to Treat Popeye in Betta Fish

If the cause of Popeye is a mycobacterial infection, you should go ahead and first treat the root of the bacteria itself. This is easily done by cleaning the tank water and ensuring that the pH balance of the water is just slightly acidic. On a side note, nearly all bacterial infections found in bettas and other fish that are pets can be prevented or in the very least you can reduce the risk of them by doing keeping the water clean and monitoring the pH balance.

Additionally, you can treat the water with Tetracycline or Terramycin, two very popular antibacterial medications that you can purchase at your local pet store. The standard is to add this in the water....100 mg of the antibiotic for every 4 oz. of food.

If this doesn't work, you can try these other methods for a quick fix that also work well as a preventative measure for your betta....

  • Warm the water to 86 degrees. You will want to do this gradually at a rate of 1 degree per hour. The water temperature should already be in the high 70 degree range.
  • Add a little salt to the water- The key is "little". Don't give your betta fish a salt bath. The percentage of salt added to the water should be no higher than .6%

Both of these quick fixes will help to keep bacterial infections at bay. It is important to note that if your fix is exhibiting signs of Popeye, you should avoid contact. Although it is unlikely your betta has tuberculosis, it is transmissible to humans through open sores.

In conclusion, Popeye is treatable and like most bacterial infections, the cause is normally dirty water or a low pH. The best way to prevent Popeye is to make sure your betta fish is in a stress free environment. That means clean water, good food, and nice warm water.

For more information on Popeye as well as other Betta fish information, you can check out Leo's betta fish site.