The Skin As An Indicator of Health and Disease

The skin of a healthy stabled horse should be elastic, smooth, clean and slightly warm. The coat should be fine, smooth, glossy and clean and give the horse a sleek appearance. Horses at grass build up a layer of protective grease which should not be removed by grooming as it helps them withstand cold and wet conditions. It is normal and healthy for a grass-kept horse to have a more greasy skin and coat and to have a longer coat in winter.

The skin can be affected by local problems but it is also the best indicator that the horse owner has of the horse's general health and condition. The coat may become dry and dull. If it is not lubricated by normal sebaceous secretions; this is a well-known sign of digestive problems and worm infestation. The horse is said to be hidebound when the skin is tight and does not move freely over the underlying structures. This can be due to dehydration and lack of subcutaneous fat and is also seen in grass sickness and poorly nourished horses.

The colour of the mucus membranes of the eyes, gums and tongues is also used as a guide to health; the membranes should be a salmon pink colour and may be pale if the horse is anaemic or red if the horse is fevered.

Other more obvious signs of disease include wounds, heat, pain, swelling, bruising, blisters, ulcers, abscesses and scabs. These signs may be due to a number of causes -bacterial (mud fever), fungal (ringworm), viral (warts), parasites (warbles), allergy (urticaria), injury (ill-fitting tack) or sunlight (photosensitisation).

Unexplained sweating or evidence of dried sweat may indicate that the horse has been in pain (colic), fevered or perhaps cast in its stable.

It can be seen that a daily inspection of the horse's skin and coat is an essential stable management routine. It should not be confined to visual inspection and the horse owner must also feel for any changes. This is best done during the daily grooming session.

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Taking Care of Your Horses In The Heat

We go to great lengths to make ourselves comfortable in the hot weather, air conditioning, fans, cold drinks. What should we do to ensure our horses are also comfortable through our hot, dry and dusty summer?

1. On the priority list -

WATER is definitely right at the top! As a general rule of thumb, horses drink 3-4% of their body weight each day, with this percentage increasing following work or during hot conditions. A 550kg horse will therefore drink (in normal conditions) around 22 litres of water per day, with 50 litres not out of the question in hot weather or after work. If your horse is getting his water supply via buckets don't forget to take into account the evaporation factor, and also ensure that water remains cool. If it becomes tepid, your horse may not drink and could suffer from dehydration. Be aware that you may have to replace or top up during the day. Obviously the best scenario is for your horse to have access to clean, fresh water where he can just meet his own requirements. Horses should be cooled down after work however before being allowed free access to water.

2. On the priority list -

Your horse, like yourself, will appreciate being able to get out of the direct sun in the heat of the day. Therefore shade is important. If there are no trees to provide shade in the paddock, a roofed shelter is desirable. if your stables are cool and well ventiliated, you may decide to keep your horse in during the day and out at night.

3. On the priority list -

Light rugs, sometimes referred to as 'fly sheets', are useful in keeping your horse comfortable in the heat and less annoyed by insects (hint: light colours deflect the heat). Fly veils can also provide your horse with a higher degree of comfort in the daylight hours, but for safety, check regularly. A good fly control program is important as flies and other biting insects can carry diseases, cause sores, annoy any existing wounds and provoke allergic reactions. You may wish to regularly apply a fly repellent, there are a number on the market that are purposely designed for horses. Covering your horse up from the sun will also ensure that his coat does not suffer any "bleaching" .

4. On the priority list -

If your horse has a pink muzzle or other sun sensitive parts on his body, apply zinc cream or sun block. For the muzzle you can attach a U.V. flap from the headstall to protect his nose from the sun. 5 On the priority list - When temperatures really soar, your horse will enjoy a cool hosing or sponging down, to bring down his body temperature. Make sure you scrape the water off afterwards though or it will form a blanket of its own and trap heat to the horse.

6. On the priority list -

If possible do not stable a hot horse. Standing still in a confined area whilst hot can cause the horse's temperature to rise even higher. Walk the horse in the open air to cool off and allow him to stand where there is plenty of air to flow over his body. If possible, plan your ride to avoid the hottest part of the day, kinder on you and him!.

7. On the priority list -

Assess the availability of summer feed and the body weight/condition of your horse regularly as paddock pasture is soon dried out and burnt off by the sun. You should supplement his diet with hay when the pasture is minimised as the digestive system of the horse is designed to continually process fibre.

8. On the priority list -

You should also develop in advance a plan of action to be carried out in the eventuality of a bush fire. The development of a survival plan that meets your individual needs is important. Whether you decide that you would transport your horse to a safe district, or place him in the safest part of the property (which may be a closely grazed paddock, green swampy area, well fenced large sand menage), the main thing is to have a plan in place.

9. On the priority list -

You should also make every effort to remove any fire hazards such as long, excessive grass and leaf litter from around buildings and stables. Clean gutters regularly and store hay, shavings etc. away from the stable block throughout summer.

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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How To Breed African Grey Parrots

For breeding African grey parrots, first of all you will need to acquire a true pair. Identify the sex of your birds before you set them up for breeding. This can be done with DNA sexing if you do not want any fuss. However, surgical sexing is recommended since it enables the physical examination of the birds' sexual organs and the detection of any potential diseases. As in other surgical procedure, this involves the acceptance of risk.

Most domestically raised African Greys will be matured enough for breeding at about five years of age. Those in the wild will take longer, between seven to eight years of age. This is due to the intake of less nutritional foods found in the wild. You should pair up your birds at six months of age to get them getting used to being with other birds and to socialize.

After identifying the ideal pair for breeding, you will need to have a suitable breeding cage. You can build your own or purchase one from the pet shop. The ideal breeding cage has the following dimensions: 4'(w) x 2'(d) x 5'(h). African Greys breed quicker in this type of dimension than in larger flights and many breeders agree to this phenomenon. The birds also get adequate exercise in this space.

The breeding cage would also need a good and sturdy perch. The male African Grey mates with its hen by physic and nesting box, ally climbing up on her back unlike other types of parrots. The ideal perch measures 2' x 4'. During the breeding cycle, the birds will do a lot of wood chewing from the perch. Use a non-pressure treated wood if you are purchasing from the hardware store and one that is hard and that last longer.

It is recommended that you use stainless steel feeding bowls and glass water bowls and have them cleaned in the dishwasher and sanitized. Swing out feeder doors on the cages is also a good option . The cages need to be cleaned daily to prevent the spread of diseases that may affect the breeding process. You will also need a nesting box for your pair. You can make your own or purchase from a vendor. There are plenty of designs available so choose one that fits your requirements.

You are now ready to start breeding your Congo African Grey. This parrot is a relatively easy bird to breed and can be quite productive if the above tips are observed.

Azmi Adnan is a writer and a bird enthusiast. Subscribe to his newsletter for fresh video clips on parrots and other bird species, ezines and interesting bird stories at his website http://www.power-to-live.com/parrot.html

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A Bird Feeder For The Beginning Birder

To some of us, there's nothing more pleasant than to see our backyards populated by birds. They're beautiful creatures and they make our garden come alive with their perpetual motion and ongoing dynamic activities.

If you want to attract birds to your garden and keep them coming back, bird feeders are one of the best ways to go about it.

If you are a beginner birder, finding the "right" birdhouse can be a challenge because there are thousands of bird houses available in the marketplace. However, if you're just starting out, a hopper feeder is probably your best choice. They're one of the most versatile feeders around.

Hopper feeders come in many styles but the main characteristic that they have in common is they are easy to fill. To fill a hopper feeder you simply open the top and pour the seed or millet. Hopper feeders come in various sizes, but even the smaller sizes are able to hold quite a bit of seed. The larger the feeder, the fewer trips you'll have to make to refill it. Another nice feature of hopper feeders is that the well make ones can be easily taken apart for cleaning.

A common and constant problem with bird feeders is that they are very attractive to squirrels. Squirrels will often raid bird feeders as an easy source of food. Unfortunately for squirrels and other critters, however, bird feeder manufacturers are finally getting up to speed. You can now find hopper feeders with built-in squirrel defenses to keep squirrels at bay.

Another advantage of hopper feeders is their size. Many feeders have small feeding platforms that are too dainty or precarious for larger birds. Hopper feeders, however, accommodate birds of all sizes. And, if you purchase one with a generous feeding platform, it will allow many birds to feed at a time. This gives you the possibility of having many different bird species sharing your garden space.

On the other hand, if you're afraid of the feeder being taken over by larger birds you may decide that you don't want larger birds in your garden. In that case, one nice feature you should look for in a hopper feeder is weight sensitive perches. This lets you calibrate the feeder so that only birds of the size you desire will can the feeder.

Avoid buying a hopper feeder made out of plastic or cheap wood. Plastic feeders have a tendency to discolor, especially when exposed to the bright sun all day. They also tend to cloud up and become "grungy looking" over time. A well made wood feeder can be a beautiful addition to your yard and last for years. Feeders made of cheap wood will likely crack or split and need replacing within a couple of year.

A hopper feeder is one of the simplest and maintenance free feeders you can buy. The only simpler type of feeder is the platform feeder which, while inexpensive, leaves the bird seeds totally exposed to the weather and other critters.

Where to place your feeder? A hopper feeder can be placed almost anywhere in your garden. You can hang it from a tree in your yard or you can fix it on a pole. If you have multiple trees, you can hang your hopper feeder from a wire stretched between them. Wherever you place it, you can count on your bird feeder giving you many years of enjoyment.

Ken Lawless writes articles on how to build a bird house, camping, and the outdoors. Visit his site at http://www.birdhousesinfo.com for more information on bird houses.

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Birding Binoculars Will Get You Closer to Nature

While birds are beautiful and fascinating, it's hard to get close to most of them. Many species are timid and afraid of humans. However, using birding binoculars gives you the best of both worlds. You can see beautiful specimens up close and personal, without having to frighten or disturb them. Users of these binoculars will be able to feel as though they're within arms reach of many birds. They are one of the best tools you can use to see birds in flight, nesting birds, and even watch them care for their hatch-lings. There are no other tools that could allow you to see these great images. Remember to look for binoculars intended for birding, as they'll give you the best performance.

Birding binoculars are a must on any bird watching trip. While you could go to an aviary, zoo, or museum, these environments don't give you the kinds of experiences that you can have observing animals in the wild. You'll learn plenty, and quickly - more than you would just reading a book or a plaque in a zoo. Remember to take a birding book along to help you with species and call identification, and enjoy learning about the different ways each individual type of bird lives its life.

While exotic birds are some of the most attractive, you don't have to rush to Costa Rica, Caribbean islands, or other touristy locations although you can if you wish. There are plenty of beautiful birds right around you - sometimes literally in your back yard. You just need to take the time to look at the world around you. A trip to the local park will show you familiar species, like pigeons and sparrows. However, if you look closely, you may also see cedar waxwings, cardinals, and many other beautiful creatures you would never noticed before. If you have children, consider taking them with you to watch the birds. Birding can be a great hobby for the whole family.

Birding is one of the fastest growing outdoor activities, both in the US and the world. Your birding optics can help you enjoy it more easily. A recent survey by the Fish and Wildlife Service suggests that more than fifty-two million Americans who enjoy bird watching as a pastime. It's a great activity that helps you learn, puts you in touch with nature, and can help relieve stress. That's why more and more people are taking up birding, and bringing their binoculars.

It doesn't matter if you're a bird fanatic or just a casual watcher. Birding binoculars can help you bring distant creatures closer. If you give it a change, you're sure to get hooked on this activity. Birding, whether alone or with family and friends, in the country or in the city, at home or abroad, is an inexpensive, rewarding hobby that helps reduce stress, and improves your over all well being. If you've been thinking about taking up birding, now is the time to start. Just be sure to bring your binoculars!

Jack Hunter writes articles for http://www.extremebinoculars.com Looking for a new pair of optics? check out extremebinoculars.com they have a complete line of binoculars including birding binoculars to meet everyone's needs. They have binoculars, monoculars, digital binoculars and laser range finders from dozens of manufacturers all in one place for you to compare prices and options.

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